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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, Fall 2012
Page Views: 1,758 total, 38/month
Shared By: phil wortmann on Feb 5, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I decided to add this to the data base, because it's just too good a line to be so obscure. I find myself recommending this one to local climbers, then I proceed to give them horrible beta that leaves them more confused about the route's whereabouts than when I started.

Blind Assumption can be very thin in the fall, causing a high number of folks to bail after the first pitch. If that's ever the case, Blind Luck is a great way to salvage that day and tick off a damn good route.

P1. WI3. Follow the first pitch of Blind Assumption, but stop short below the huge chockstone instead of belaying at the fixed gear, 100 feet.

P2. M5 WI4. Find the finger crack on to the right and follow it left of the chockstone, then right through the tunnel and set a belay at a good stance, 60 feet.

Climb a short pitch to the belay ledge near the base of BA's pitch 3, and move the belay there.

P3. Find a small crack on the far left side of the ledge that leads up to a dark cave. Pull around the right of the cave with great gear, and continue through wide crack to a solid ledge. Belay in the corner, 50 feet.

P3 alternative. Pull the obvious roof crack to an extremely hard mantle. It's very hard to find or place gear once you're up there, so go hard! It is hard to rate this, maybe M9? I was climbing M8 fairly well when I did this, and I thought I was going to blow a hernia doing it. Wellborn said it was M8+, but he's a man among men....

P4. M4/5. Climb the beauty of a dihedral, exiting right at the end of the corner system, and belay at a ledge at the top. This pitch is great! 120 feet.

P5. M4. Climb a short pitch to the top of the technical difficulties. Stay far left, the obvious crack ahead of you is awkward and hard to protect. When in doubt, go left, 50 feet.

Walk off right, crossing the tops of BA and TA, and continue to the highway. Or, rap down BA with two ropes.

We've done several other routes on the Corinthian Column and in the area, and maybe someday we'll get around to posting them. Toga Party, Lost 'N' Found, etc., hit me up if you want a topo or beta until then. I'd like to get back up there as soon as the road clears up and Wellborn and Noah get back to the Springs.... Where y'all at, fellas?

Cheers.

Location

This one weaves around Blind Assumption, on the left side of the Corinthian Column.

Protection

Single rack, handful o' screws. Some iron is always helpful.
LawHous
Colorado Springs, CO
  WI4 M5+
LawHous   Colorado Springs, CO
  WI4 M5+
Such a good route! The top two pitches are a blast and well worth the trip up there. Jun 1, 2016
erik wellborn
manitou springs
erik wellborn   manitou springs
Quality. A great variation if BA is dry or looking for something a bit more challenging. Feb 23, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  WI4 M8+
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  WI4 M8+
This is an AMAZING route. It's like Vail drytooling in the alpine...at least the first pitch. I recommend the roof variation (FA line). It's not often you get HARD drytooling at 13,000+ ft. If it were in Vail, it would be comparable if not harder then P1 of Red Bull and Vodka. The alpine version of it. It doesn't look hard...but it is.... Bring a specter. As after the roof, that's your next piece before a 0.5. Don't fall at that point. Well worth it! As good as the Ole #6! Feb 11, 2014