Elevation: 6,600 ft
GPS: 38.834, -104.831 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 49,154 total · 328/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Okay, this is going to tickle a few of you out there to say "what the...." This area has been notoriously tight in coughing up information on rock and/or ice. Once, there was even a Colorado Springs website which hosted a bit of information on ice. Well, some of it has been added to the database. Some is already in guidebooks such as Cameron Burns' delightful Colorado Ice Climber's Guide, Colorado Springs Area p. 217-220. So, everyone is secretive about the ice, but as my youngest child is taught in preschool, "let's share."

Within C. Burn's guide are:

Silver Cascades, WI2, 2p.
Green Mountain Falls, WI1-2
Gillette Falls, WI2-5, check out access issues 1st.

There likely is more ice in the Cheyenne Canyon drainage with the right conditions.

Higher up:

Blind Assumption, 300-1000'
The Ole 6, 4p, 450'
Total Abandon, 3p, 400'
Y Couloir, 2000' vertical

North Cheyenne Canyon:

The Phantom, 80'

Buried within our database is even two comments one
then and two about Helen Hunt Falls, and now Saint Mary’s Falls.

Getting There

Colorado Springs is located on the Front Range, about 70 miles south of Denver. From there, you'll need to look at each of the specific subareas.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Colorado Springs & vicinity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+ M4+
 30
Total Abandon
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5 M5
 21
Blind Assumption
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
 16
Y Couloir
Alpine
WI3-4 M6
 6
The Phantom
Mixed, Ice
WI4-
 31
Hully Gully
Ice 2 pitches
M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13
 9
Right Couloir of Three Little Pi…
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3 M5
 3
66 Years of Fun
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4 M5
 5
Blind Luck
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
M7
 5
Three Dragons
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
 5
Toga Party
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
 6
The Ole 6
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Total Abandon Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 30
WI4+ M4+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Assumption Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 21
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Y Couloir Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 16
Alpine
The Phantom N Cheyenne Canyon
 6
WI3-4 M6 Mixed, Ice
Hully Gully N Cheyenne Canyon
 31
WI4- Ice 2 pitches
Right Couloir of Three Litt… Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 9
M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13 Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
66 Years of Fun Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 3
WI3 M5 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Luck Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
WI4 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Three Dragons Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
M7 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Toga Party Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
The Ole 6 Pike's Peak > N Face of Pike's Peak
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
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Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
Though I didn't have problems when I went to Gillette, I was warned of angry land owners deflating tires. The property accessed across is I believed owned by Colorado Springs water. I would suggest checking with the FS and CO Spgs before going to ensure you have a leg to stand on before going. If anyone can confirm access issues, it would be appreciated. Jan 29, 2007
Gillette Falls and its approach reside on private property that belong to Cripple Creek Water District and a landowner that doesn't want folks crossing his land, and it's his right to keep folks off. If conditions allow, find another way to gain access to these falls, but find out what is best prior to the long approach. Oct 6, 2009
r.f
colorado springs
r.f   colorado springs
Helen Hunt/ S. Cascades is in for now. The cold temps have set up the ice enough to climb. It's a little wet in spots, and I've seen it thicker in years, but all in all, it is a fun solo at lunch time. Jan 4, 2013