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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Erik Wellborn, Phil Wortmann, September 2012
Page Views: 1,160 total, 44/month
Shared By: phil wortmann on Oct 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Toga is a great intro to Pikes Peak Mixed action. During the FA, we had a great pitch of ice to start it. However, the first pitch can be mossy and chossy when iceless, but the last 3 are splitter AF.

P1 - 100 feet. This is WI3-4 or M3ish depending on conditions. Start at the base of the gully that leads to the prominent, right-facing corner system of The Ole 6. Belay at the big ledge beneath an offwidth flake.

P2 - 80 feet. Climb the offwidth flake, then bust right ten feet to a splitter up the face to a nice belay stance, 5.6. The money pitch!

P3 - 100 feet. Continue straight up through parallel pick size cracks to a ledge on a block. 5.6/m5-?? Prolly the crux.

P4 - 80 feet. Go straight up enjoyable, somewhat mossy climbing to a mossy topout. Belay straight back 20 feet at a wide corner.

Scramble up 100 feet or so, and cross right over the top of TA to get back to the car.

Location

On the Corinthian Column, this is just right of the big roof at the top.

Protection

Single rack, doubles #0.75-2. Some thin pins are nice.

Photos

phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
 
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
 
Great work, Lawrence, I'm super psyched to see someone else get up there. You'll love the Ol' 6 and Blind Luck too. Oct 9, 2015
erik wellborn
manitou springs
  5.6 WI3 M5-
erik wellborn   manitou springs
  5.6 WI3 M5-
LawHous, I think we went left at the roof. Good hooks and gear on that variation as well. Oct 9, 2015
LawHous
Colorado Springs, CO
 
LawHous   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Superb route. Awesome alternative to TA or BA if dry. I found the crux to be end of p3/start of p4. It's a roof where you could go left or right . I went right. Puts you into an awkward, squeeze chimney thing. Although the splitter crack was slick in crampons and tough as well, sustained route all in all. Oct 9, 2015
erik wellborn
manitou springs
  5.6 WI3 M5-
erik wellborn   manitou springs
  5.6 WI3 M5-
When your climbing group is on double Secret Probation and the wife wants you to work in the yard, what are ya gonna do? Toga Party!!! My favorite mixed route on the Corinthian. Mostly because it's the only one I can climb. Oct 9, 2015