Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, 80 ft|
|FA:||Allen Hill & Eric Goukas, 1985?|
|Page Views:||4,679 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Jan 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
From the parking area, find a trail along the South side of the Canyon, crossing the creek on a bridge, and then head East back towards Colorado Springs. Take the lower branch of the trail if you encounter a fork. Simply walk until you are below the obvious drainage, and then start to scramble uphill, keeping mainly to the East side of the drainage until you reach the base of the climb. Depending on ice and snow conditions, you may feel comfortable putting on crampons and roping up a little below the climb, because the approach finishes over some slabs that lead to a distinct shelf beneath the climb. There are a number of fixed pins to the right side of the climb that can be used for a belay, depending on your comfort level with how far to the side you want to belay from.
The climb itself moves over steeper rock past fixed pins and two bolts until you can get onto the ice, depending on conditions. A few smaller TCUs and stoppers might be in order for gear as well. For the ice, shorter screws will probably be best, because the ice may not be the thickest.
The climb is probably 75 to 80 feet in length with ample trees at the top for setting up a top rope anchor or rappelling from. From below the climb, it looks like a scramble can be made to East if you don't want to lead the climb before setting a top rope. After you are finished climbing, it is probably best to rappel from the shelf off of a big tree on the right hand side of the shelf. This will take you back below the slabs that are found on the approach.
The grade of the climb is tough for me to gauge. This is because I do not have a lot of experience with scratching tools over rock. It feels like a middling mixed grade if that makes any sense. I will be happy to edit the grade if a consensus emerges. As a reference, use Joel G McWhinney's 1997 book, In Search of Ice, if you can find a copy of it. McWhinney's guide gives the climb a grade of WI 5, but I think this is somewhat of a stretch. I would suggest M6/WI3/4. Enjoy.