Avg: 3.8 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Don Doucette, Larry Hazlett|
|Page Views:||10,984 total · 50/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Jun 1, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For the approach, see Total Abandon. Once at Total Abandon, keep going across the snowfield to the other side of the Corinthian Column. Turn right and go uphill.
Pitch 1 - Begin at two fixed pitons on the left side of the gully. Climb up into the gully as it turns into a chimney and turn the giant roof on the left. There is a possible belay at the very back of the roof, but it looks like more of a retreat anchor. Continue up lower angled ground to another belay with two pitons of the left side of the gully.
Pitches 2 and 3 - Continue up the chimney system for two more pitches. The hard stuff finishes with a tough mixed move off of a flake. Continue up to the summit or break sharp right and cross over Total Abandon and traverse to the ridge to begin the descent to the car.
Alternatively - If the chimney system is running like a shower, break right at the top of the first pitch. A fine crack system goes for 250 feet to the top of the Corinthian Column before meeting at the top of the chimney system. Choose which top out is desired.
This route is tough to catch in good condition. Either the road isn't open to the top or the route is melting in the summer heat, or it is way too thin for normal folks to want to do. Keep trying, like Necrophilia, in the right conditions, this one is a classic; otherwise it can be just a myth.
[Eds. This submission had been previously listed under RMNP/Alpine then non-RMNP/Alpine and now here by request & for better organization.]