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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak
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66 Years of Fun WI3 M5 |
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Blind Assumption T WI5 M5 |
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Blind Luck T WI4 M5 |
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Center Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2 Mod. Snow |
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Left Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) Mod. Snow |
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Ole 6, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+ |
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Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Three Dragons T M7 |
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Toga Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- |
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Total Abandon T WI4+ M4+ |
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Y Couloir |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Don Doucette, Larry Hazlett |
| Page Views: | 11,947 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Julian Smith on Jun 1, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Blind Assumption climbs the icy chimney system on the left side of the Corinthian Column. Overall it is more sustained and harder than its cousin, Total Abandon. For 400 feet, it makes its way up 3 pitches before finally relenting on the summit snowfields.
For the approach, see Total Abandon. Once at Total Abandon, keep going across the snowfield to the other side of the Corinthian Column. Turn right and go uphill.
Pitch 1 - Begin at two fixed pitons on the left side of the gully. Climb up into the gully as it turns into a chimney and turn the giant roof on the left. There is a possible belay at the very back of the roof, but it looks like more of a retreat anchor. Continue up lower angled ground to another belay with two pitons of the left side of the gully.
Pitches 2 and 3 - Continue up the chimney system for two more pitches. The hard stuff finishes with a tough mixed move off of a flake. Continue up to the summit or break sharp right and cross over Total Abandon and traverse to the ridge to begin the descent to the car.
Alternatively - If the chimney system is running like a shower, break right at the top of the first pitch. A fine crack system goes for 250 feet to the top of the Corinthian Column before meeting at the top of the chimney system. Choose which top out is desired.
This route is tough to catch in good condition. Either the road isn't open to the top or the route is melting in the summer heat, or it is way too thin for normal folks to want to do. Keep trying, like Necrophilia, in the right conditions, this one is a classic; otherwise it can be just a myth.
[Eds. This submission had been previously listed under RMNP/Alpine then non-RMNP/Alpine and now here by request & for better organization.]
For the approach, see Total Abandon. Once at Total Abandon, keep going across the snowfield to the other side of the Corinthian Column. Turn right and go uphill.
Pitch 1 - Begin at two fixed pitons on the left side of the gully. Climb up into the gully as it turns into a chimney and turn the giant roof on the left. There is a possible belay at the very back of the roof, but it looks like more of a retreat anchor. Continue up lower angled ground to another belay with two pitons of the left side of the gully.
Pitches 2 and 3 - Continue up the chimney system for two more pitches. The hard stuff finishes with a tough mixed move off of a flake. Continue up to the summit or break sharp right and cross over Total Abandon and traverse to the ridge to begin the descent to the car.
Alternatively - If the chimney system is running like a shower, break right at the top of the first pitch. A fine crack system goes for 250 feet to the top of the Corinthian Column before meeting at the top of the chimney system. Choose which top out is desired.
This route is tough to catch in good condition. Either the road isn't open to the top or the route is melting in the summer heat, or it is way too thin for normal folks to want to do. Keep trying, like Necrophilia, in the right conditions, this one is a classic; otherwise it can be just a myth.
[Eds. This submission had been previously listed under RMNP/Alpine then non-RMNP/Alpine and now here by request & for better organization.]
Protection
Double ropes would be nice on this climb. The lower part wanders a bit under some roofs. Otherwise, bring a selection of all size ice screws, emphasis on the shorter side. A standard rack with maybe a few Lost Arrow and Knifeblade pitons would be nice to have.
FA tidbit
From Larry Hazlett: "I was Don's climbing partner on the FA and have images of the climb. I led the third pitch. We climbed using Chounard 55cm ice axes and hammers. The climb was in great shape for us. Steve (Muff) Cheney met us as we topped out! Great day."
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