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Areas in Pike's Peak

North Face of Pike's Peak 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 9 / 11 / 11
Oil Creek Tunnel Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Southeast Face 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1
Elevation: 14,110 ft
GPS: 38.841, -105.044 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,309 total · 138/month
Shared By: Hamish Gowans on Oct 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Ice Climbing

Classic moderate mixed climbing and skiing can be had in the Bottomless Pit cirque below the north face of Pike's Peak. Take the toll road ($10 per person) to a flat area at around mile 14 where the road curves close to the eastern drop-off before heading around the west side of the final climb to the summit. Head from the car pretty much straight over (East) to the edge, scramble down and either traverse pretty much level to the South or descend any number of gullies to the bottom of the Bottomless Pit. Looking up at the N face, you will see a rock buttress forming the NE edge of the face. The couloir to the right is the Railroad couloir and to the right of that is the distinctive Y couloir. Further right is a pale buttress of rock with a deep gully on either side -this is the Corinthian column and the gullies ice up in fall to provide moderate mixed climbs. Beware of the necessity to be back at your car by 4pm or you will get a ticket and may be locked in when they close the gates at the bottom of the road. Also note that the road opens at 9am and is subject to partial closure, depending on plowing (call 719.385.PEAK for conditions).

At the moment, there are very similar entries here on the N. Face of Pike's Peak. One was located in the Alpine Rock section, but it was moved here, because it really wasn't rock climbing. These 2 sections will be combined after careful consideration.

Getting There

From Colorado Springs, go west on US Highway 24 past Manitou Springs and through a narrow canyon. Just as the canyon opens up again, you will see signs for Pikes Peak and turn left at a light, then left again through an arch about a half-mile up. The entrance is another ~3/4 miles along.

The speed limit is 25 mph unless otherwise posted.

Points of Interest / Altitudes

MM 2: Camera Point: overlooks Ute Pass, US 24, and Cascade, 8220'.
MM 3: Crowe Gulch, 1st view of Pike's Peak, 8540'.
MM 3.5: Have you seen Bigfoot?
MM 6: Crystal Reservoir, 9160'.
MM 9.5: Halfway Picnic Ground, 9930'.
MM 10.5: Brown Bush: views of Tarryall Mtns., Mt. Princeton, Mt. Evans, 10,000'.
MM 11: views of N. Catamount, S. Catamount, & Crystal Reservoirs.
MM 11.5: Ski area, 10,600'.
MM 13: Glen Cove, 11,440'.
MM 14: Elk Park, 11,800'.
MM 16: Devil's Playground, views of "Switchbacks", Pikes Peak Reservoirs, Platte River Valley north to the Continental Divide, 12,780'.
MM 16.5: Bottomless Pit, view of Sangre De Cristos, Ghost Town Hollow Mine (~1500' below rock wall), 12,760'.
MM 18: Boulder Park, 13,380'.
MM 18.5: Sheep sign.
MM 19: Summit, view that inspired Katherine Lee Bates' "America the Beautiful" in 1893, 14,110'.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pike's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+ M4+
 30
Total Abandon
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5 M5
 21
Blind Assumption
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
 16
Y Couloir
Alpine
M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13
 9
Right Couloir of Three Little Pi…
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3 M5
 3
66 Years of Fun
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4 M5
 5
Blind Luck
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
M7
 5
Three Dragons
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
 5
Toga Party
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
 6
The Ole 6
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Total Abandon N Face of Pike's Peak
 30
WI4+ M4+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Assumption N Face of Pike's Peak
 21
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Y Couloir N Face of Pike's Peak
 16
Alpine
Right Couloir of Three Litt… N Face of Pike's Peak
 9
M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13 Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
66 Years of Fun N Face of Pike's Peak
 3
WI3 M5 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Luck N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
WI4 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Three Dragons N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
M7 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Toga Party N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
The Ole 6 N Face of Pike's Peak
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Pike's Peak »

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Was in the Bottomless Pit in December '04, fantastic AI3-4 sections of climbing and some snow sections for about 800' (guessing) could be more. Anyway, what a fun alpine adventure. Quick to get to when the road is open all the way to mile 14, head down the Rumdoodle Ridge and then south at the low point into the pit, the climb is to the right of the Corinthian Column. As described, pay attention to time to get back to the car. Feb 2, 2005
That Corinthian Column is an incredible-looking piece of stone. How big is it? 600-800'? Are there good routes on that puppy? Would they be in the Hubbel (sp?) guide?

Thanx Feb 2, 2005

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