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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

Elevation: 14,110 ft
GPS: 38.841, -105.044 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 19,671 total, 104/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Jun 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Pike's Peak towers more than 7000' above the town of Colorado Springs. Plainly visible from US Highway 24 on the way up to Woodland Park is the tantalizing north face. Rising out of the Bottomless Cirque, the north face offers a plethora of snow climbs, mixed routes, and descents for skiers and riders. The good news is that access is easy, but the bad news is [that access] is expensive. Fork over $12.00 each for a ride to about 13,000' or the last big bend in the road before it climbs to the summit. Park on the west side of the road in the howling wind and make your way east for 75 to 100 yards. Find a likely spot to descend onto the Hero Rock Traverse and feel the wind die away (results may vary). This area can be creepy, but keep at it. It's not too bad. Make a descending traverse to the southeast, working your way around snow gullies and a spur. A broad amphitheater announces your arrival at the Corinthian Column. The fine mixed routes, Total Abandon and Blind Assumption, adorn it on either side.

Keep traversing to reach the snow gullies of the Railroad and Y Couloir for a climb or descent.

The gate is run by very non-climbing oriented people. It opens at 7:00 AM and closes at dark from May through September. Winter means the gate opens at 9:00 AM. As to be expected, they don't allow cars to be parked overnight.

In Spring, watch out for avalanche conditions. Most anywhere on the face could and probably has been climbed. This is a very cool place (see Rock and Ice #[85]).

Eds. This information had been listed under the rock section under RMNP/Alpine then non-RMNP/Alpine and now here by request & for better organization.

Getting There

From Colorado Springs, take US Highway 24 west (past Manitou Springs) to the Pikes Peak Highway exit on your left. Signs show the way to where you have to fork over the cash and then follow the above directions. Expect 40 minutes of driving to get to the parking for most of the ice. Enjoy.

Fees

As of 11/11, the fees are $12 per person, $50 for a car with up to 5 people. The late fee for missing the 5pm closing is $100 per person!

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Face of Pike's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+ M4-5
Total Abandon
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5 M5
Blind Assumption
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Y Couloir
Alpine
M2-3 PG13
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (F…
Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3 M5
66 Years of Fun
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4 M5
Blind Luck
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
M7
Three Dragons
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
Toga Party
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
The Ole 6
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Total Abandon WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Assumption WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Y Couloir Alpine
Right Couloir of Three Litt… M2-3 PG13 Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
66 Years of Fun WI3 M5 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Luck WI4 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Three Dragons M7 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Toga Party 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
The Ole 6 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Face of Pike's Peak »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Is there a different page with the rock routes? Aug 5, 2017
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
That's a typo: you'll want to reference Rock & Ice issue #85 (not 65). Nov 6, 2011
The other way to approach the Bottomless Pit cirque (for those of us who are poor but determined) is to hike the Barr Trail out of Manitou Springs up to Barr Camp (about 7 miles?). Continue past Barr Camp about a mile and follow a sign for a trail heading north to the Bottomless Pit. Traverse the mountainside as it rises slightly while winding up and around into the cirque. It's a long approach (you'd need to camp) but it makes it feel more alpine and I think you get more out of it. It's a satisfying feeling to return to your car knowing that you just hiked 20 miles while lugging rock and ice gear along with camping and cooking supplies. Jan 12, 2002

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