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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

66 Years of Fun WI3 M5
Blind Assumption T WI5 M5
Blind Luck T WI4 M5
Center Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2 Mod. Snow
Left Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) Mod. Snow
Ole 6, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13
Three Dragons T M7
Toga Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
Total Abandon T WI4+ M4+
Y Couloir
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Type: Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 15/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The one redeeming quality of this route is the short approach. If you don't like the 7:30 AM toll gate opening time, start earlier, and suffer the long approach from the Crags Trailhead.

From the parking area, hike into the north face cirque above Glen Cove. Continue hiking to the base of the Three Little Pigs Couloir (AKA: Flying W) on the left (east) side of the cirque. Climb the center couloir, and when the couloir narrows, the large crux chockstone becomes apparent. Surmount the 8-12 foot crux, and continue climbing on moderate snow through an enjoyable granite gateway to the top. Another 400 feet of grinding talus covered snow will lead you to Devil's Playground.

For those who want to keep this a moderate snow climb, the crux chockstone can be bypassed on the left up broken ledges.

Location

Pay the $15 per head fee (2017) for the Pikes Peak Toll Road, and drive 11.8 miles from the toll gate to a switchback. Park on the right side of the road at the switchback.

Protection

If desired, a selection of nuts and small cams.

Photos

Furthermore
  M2 Mod. Snow
Furthermore  
  M2 Mod. Snow
Granted I see the logic behind your comment, I thought I made it pretty clear the location of this climb (for example the first sentence under "Location"). More importantly, instead of creating a new area with such limited routes, I just added these variations to the Piggies to which one was already posted. The Right Variation was posted first (2013), and I just followed their lead, but some research would have probably shown that. Aug 2, 2017

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