Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches
FA: Probably G. Griscom, J. Thompson, B. Collett, October 2013, of complete line. However pitches 1 and 2 had been previously climbed.
Page Views: 2,515 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route has some fun, steep drytooling and a pretty pleasant, ice choked groove on the second pitch and provides a good option if Total Abandon and Blind Assumption are crowded. It actually contains a lot more climbing than Total Abandon.

1) Follow the groove past some steeper spots and some turf to a snowy ledge with a fixed nut, 130 feet, M2.

2) Continue up the feature as it steepens and then gets icy, belaying on the next snowy patch. There is a fixed anchor at the snowy patch if you dig enough, 150 feet, WI3 M4.

3) Follow the steepening dihedral with a crux breaking left over an arete. The climbing eases somewhat at this point. Above the crux is a left-trending ramp which is followed to a good ledge level with the top of Total Abandon, 160 feet, M5.

From here, it is an easy scramble to the walk off ledge for Total Abandon.

Location Suggest change

This follows the leftmost groove system in the alcove right of Total Abandon.

Protection Suggest change

A screw or two and a plentiful supply of rock gear to #2 Camalot.