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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

66 Years of Fun WI3 M5
Blind Assumption T WI5 M5
Blind Luck T WI4 M5
Center Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2 Mod. Snow
Left Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) Mod. Snow
Ole 6, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13
Three Dragons T M7
Toga Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
Total Abandon T WI4+ M4-5
Y Couloir
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Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Probably G. Griscom, J. Thompson, B. Collett, October 2013, of complete line. However pitches 1 and 2 had been previously climbed.
Page Views: 1,439 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Description [Edit]

This route has some fun, steep drytooling and a pretty pleasant, ice choked groove on the second pitch and provides a good option if Total Abandon and Blind Assumption are crowded. It actually contains a lot more climbing than Total Abandon.

1) Follow the groove past some steeper spots and some turf to a snowy ledge with a fixed nut, 130 feet, M2.

2) Continue up the feature as it steepens and then gets icy, belaying on the next snowy patch. There is a fixed anchor at the snowy patch if you dig enough, 150 feet, WI3 M4.

3) Follow the steepening dihedral with a crux breaking left over an arete. The climbing eases somewhat at this point. Above the crux is a left-trending ramp which is followed to a good ledge level with the top of Total Abandon, 160 feet, M5.

From here, it is an easy scramble to the walk off ledge for Total Abandon.

Location [Edit]

This follows the leftmost groove system in the alcove right of Total Abandon.

Protection [Edit]

A screw or two and a plentiful supply of rock gear to #2 Camalot.

Photos

erik wellborn
manitou springs
erik wellborn   manitou springs
Noah and I climbed the first two pitches in September and then bailed due to the nasty choss at the crux, we dubbed it The Litter Box. It looks a lot more fun with some snow and ice! Oct 15, 2013

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