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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak

66 Years of Fun WI3 M5
Blind Assumption T WI5 M5
Blind Luck T WI4 M5
Center Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2
Left Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W)
Ole 6, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2-3 PG13
Three Dragons T M7
Toga Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
Total Abandon T WI4+ M4-5
Y Couloir
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Probably G. Griscom, J. Thompson, B. Collett, October 2013, of complete line. However pitches 1 and 2 had been previously climbed.
Page Views: 1,362 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route has some fun, steep drytooling and a pretty pleasant, ice choked groove on the second pitch and provides a good option if Total Abandon and Blind Assumption are crowded. It actually contains a lot more climbing than Total Abandon.

1) Follow the groove past some steeper spots and some turf to a snowy ledge with a fixed nut, 130 feet, M2.

2) Continue up the feature as it steepens and then gets icy, belaying on the next snowy patch. There is a fixed anchor at the snowy patch if you dig enough, 150 feet, WI3 M4.

3) Follow the steepening dihedral with a crux breaking left over an arete. The climbing eases somewhat at this point. Above the crux is a left-trending ramp which is followed to a good ledge level with the top of Total Abandon, 160 feet, M5.

From here, it is an easy scramble to the walk off ledge for Total Abandon.

Location

This follows the leftmost groove system in the alcove right of Total Abandon.

Protection

A screw or two and a plentiful supply of rock gear to #2 Camalot.

Photos

erik wellborn
manitou springs
erik wellborn   manitou springs
Noah and I climbed the first two pitches in September and then bailed due to the nasty choss at the crux, we dubbed it The Litter Box. It looks a lot more fun with some snow and ice! Oct 15, 2013