All Locations > Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Colorado Springs… > Pike's Peak > North Face of Pike's Peak
66 Years of Fun
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Probably G. Griscom, J. Thompson, B. Collett, October 2013, of complete line. However pitches 1 and 2 had been previously climbed.|
|Page Views:||1,402 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on Oct 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route has some fun, steep drytooling and a pretty pleasant, ice choked groove on the second pitch and provides a good option if Total Abandon and Blind Assumption are crowded. It actually contains a lot more climbing than Total Abandon.
1) Follow the groove past some steeper spots and some turf to a snowy ledge with a fixed nut, 130 feet, M2.
2) Continue up the feature as it steepens and then gets icy, belaying on the next snowy patch. There is a fixed anchor at the snowy patch if you dig enough, 150 feet, WI3 M4.
3) Follow the steepening dihedral with a crux breaking left over an arete. The climbing eases somewhat at this point. Above the crux is a left-trending ramp which is followed to a good ledge level with the top of Total Abandon, 160 feet, M5.
From here, it is an easy scramble to the walk off ledge for Total Abandon.