Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Joe Terravecchia, Nov 2012
Page Views: 3,189 total · 44/month
Shared By: Joe Terravecchia on Dec 22, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Great climbing and one of the most difficult all gear protected routes in New England. The meat of the climb is a V9ish boulder problem at mid height involving a series of very powerful opposing side pulls to either a long low percentage dyno ( Will C) or several more difficult face moves (Joe T) to the horizontal. Blow the last bit before the horizontal and you'll take a 25' - 30' lob. If the small cam pulls, a bomber offset nut will keep you off the ground.
The route tops out so the anchors are set back from the edge. Bring 6' slings if intending to TR.

Location

Between the BBB route and Moe Howard Died For Our Sins.
Right facing corner and flakes to steep face.

Protection

Small to medium cams and a #9 HB or DMM offset nut.
All gear was placed free and on lead.

DO NOT PLACE ANY PINS OR FIX ANY GEAR ON THIS ROUTE.

Photos

Nice work Joe and Will! Dec 24, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Awesome guys !!!! A gear 5.14 is next ??? I know of a couple... Dec 24, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
very impressive guys. Dec 24, 2012

 
great work guys, inspiring... Dec 24, 2012
Joe Terravecchia
  5.13d
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.13d
Thanks guys. Here's a short video clip of a few attempts one day in November.
You've gotta love the audio!


youtu.be/vB92X3Bt5pM Dec 25, 2012

 
that video was great! I was NOT expecting that! Dec 26, 2012
Jason Denver
Wakefield
Jason Denver   Wakefield
Really awesome Joe. Like the video. Dec 26, 2012
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Wow! Almost spilled my coffee watching that video. Nice job! Dec 27, 2012
And Partner
  5.13d R
And Partner  
  5.13d R
Oh Joe you are too kind. While I would love to take credit, the only free ascent so far of this route is by Joe. The closest I got was about 2 inches from the finishing hold. Next season. Dec 27, 2012
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
Awesome video link. Jan 12, 2013
chinos  
right on Joe! Jan 17, 2013