Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: ???????
Page Views: 2,460 total · 32/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Sep 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

This route was recently retro bolted and its a situation where it was well warranted. I've climbed this route pre and post bolts and having solid fixed protection does not detract from the climbing.
Start left of the BBB and climb 10 feet up to the first bolt, move up and left on thin edges and slopers to a ledge, traverse slightly left then back right on steep slopers and jugs to a strange v slot at a roof, layback around the v slot getting your feet on a small ledge below the slot, rest then move up on less than inspiring rock to the chains.

Location

Just left of the BBB on the main approach trail to the cliff.

Protection

the crux and below is sporty bolted, after the v groove I would bring a small rack .4-2.

Photos

JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Love the homemade bolts. Sep 16, 2012
Harrison Harb
Portland
Harrison Harb   Portland
layback crux is totally sweet! Sep 19, 2012
And Partner
  5.9-
And Partner  
  5.9-
Homemade hangers are gone.
We replaced them with painted store bought hangers. Sep 20, 2012
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.9-
Nice clean 5.7 face to a bolt protected one move 8+/9- step up at the layback. Sep 20, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
is this the route that finish left of the finger crack (bbb?) in that flare? Sep 21, 2012
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.9-
Yeah, the bolted line just left of BBB that leads up to a layback flake. Sep 21, 2012
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
  5.10a
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
  5.10a
Off-balancy moves lead to a cool move around the flake, but not the greatest route at the Pond. Apr 28, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right? May 9, 2013
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
I started right under the first bolt. Nice quartz cube for the start. Couple of 5.7 face moves to the first bolt. May 19, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.10
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.10
If you're at Stonehouse, I'd say this is a 'must climb' Jul 5, 2013
Andy Elliott
Hampton NH
Andy Elliott   Hampton NH
the climbing after the layback above the last bolt is really easy if anybody was worried about running it out or doesnt have trad gear. Dec 2, 2013
Corey Thompson
Louisville, CO
 
Corey Thompson   Louisville, CO
 
I placed two cams after the bolts. It's nice, but not totally necessary. Jun 30, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
The middle of the route is excellent!

Be confident on 5.7-5.8 face climbing to get to the first bolt, you wouldn't want to fall from up there before clipping it.

I recommend some cams for the top. I placed two, but it is easy climbing, probably 5.5.

The location of the anchor is such that your rope will be abraded on the rock on lower. I suggest rapping off. Dec 12, 2015