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Routes in Stonehouse Pond

Amazing Schlingazi, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
And Partner Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
BBB route, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bald Man In A Boat S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Hot Pocket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Barrington Levy TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down By Law S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geezer Pleaser T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Joke Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luna S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nose, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roost, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sicilian Olympics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Snake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Trundle Drunk Express T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Route S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We Could Eat Cereal T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Terravecchia, Roberto Benigni (TR). Christian Prellwitz, lead
Page Views: 1,308 total · 19/month
Shared By: Joe Terravecchia on Sep 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a clean slab route with a desperately slippery crux. Wait for cool temps or prepare ye to slide. Bolts are a little spaced due to the scarcity of good clipping stances.

Location [Suggest Change]

75' right of Hymie's Last Stand. The first bolted route that you see as you emerge from the chimney approaching from the water.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to a pine tree growing out of the slab.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Felt more like 13a to me, than 12d. Perhaps I was doing the crux sequence wrong, but it felt at least v7 to me. And the sections just before and after the crux are very delicate, technical and tenuous as well. So it ends up feeling quite sustained. I could see how if you're around 6 feet tall, or have a long wingspan, you could reach the small quartz crimps more easily near the end of the crux sequence. I had to do a few more VERY technical moves to reach those holds. And the clip in that section was definitely exciting.

Just like its neighbor to the left, this climb is everything a hard slab climb should be. And the rock is immaculate, especially the marble like, water polished rock at the top.

I could climb lines like this for days and never get bored. Oct 14, 2015
Glad you liked it so much and yes, 13a is probably closer to the grade as it is harder than Bald Man.
By the way, if you red pointed it, good on you ! ... probably a first. I had only successfully TR'd it in the 90's. Nov 11, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Yah, I worked out the moves on toprope and then sent it on my first redpoint attempt (with pre-hung draws) since I had it pretty wired at that point. I thought the clipping stances were actually pretty reasonable (for a climb like this), though you have to put a lot of trust in your feet at those moments.

Honestly, this is one of the better slabs I've ever done and I've been on a bit of a slab binge lately. You guys have done a great job with the lines at Stonehouse. Nov 12, 2015
Nice work Christian ! Glad that you like the routes out there. Dec 2, 2015

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