Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Terravecchia, Roberto Benigni (TR). Christian Prellwitz, lead
Page Views: 1,380 total · 18/month
Shared By: Joe Terravecchia on Sep 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is a clean slab route with a desperately slippery crux. Wait for cool temps or prepare ye to slide. Bolts are a little spaced due to the scarcity of good clipping stances.

Location

75' right of Hymie's Last Stand. The first bolted route that you see as you emerge from the chimney approaching from the water.

Protection

5 bolts to a pine tree growing out of the slab.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Felt more like 13a to me, than 12d. Perhaps I was doing the crux sequence wrong, but it felt at least v7 to me. And the sections just before and after the crux are very delicate, technical and tenuous as well. So it ends up feeling quite sustained. I could see how if you're around 6 feet tall, or have a long wingspan, you could reach the small quartz crimps more easily near the end of the crux sequence. I had to do a few more VERY technical moves to reach those holds. And the clip in that section was definitely exciting.

Just like its neighbor to the left, this climb is everything a hard slab climb should be. And the rock is immaculate, especially the marble like, water polished rock at the top.

I could climb lines like this for days and never get bored. Oct 14, 2015
Joe Terravecchia
  5.13a
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.13a
Glad you liked it so much and yes, 13a is probably closer to the grade as it is harder than Bald Man.
By the way, if you red pointed it, good on you ! ... probably a first. I had only successfully TR'd it in the 90's. Nov 11, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Yah, I worked out the moves on toprope and then sent it on my first redpoint attempt (with pre-hung draws) since I had it pretty wired at that point. I thought the clipping stances were actually pretty reasonable (for a climb like this), though you have to put a lot of trust in your feet at those moments.

Honestly, this is one of the better slabs I've ever done and I've been on a bit of a slab binge lately. You guys have done a great job with the lines at Stonehouse. Nov 12, 2015
Joe Terravecchia
  5.13a
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.13a
Nice work Christian ! Glad that you like the routes out there. Dec 2, 2015