Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: ??????
Page Views: 1,824 total · 24/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Sep 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Locate a bolt about twenty feet up, strategically placed below the beginning of a thin seam. The climbing here is solid 9- but requires a cool head. There is a piton just right of the climbing at head height from the ground but it would do very little for you if you fell above it trying to clip the bolt. After clipping the first bolt, thin fingers lead to a boulder problem crux and a marginal rest on a sloping ledge. From here you can escape left at 8+ or plug gear in a horizontal, step up to a lone bolt and launch into a pumpy thin fight to the chains.

Location

when walking up the approach trail the first very obvious line when you reach the cliff.

Protection

two bolts, wires, cams from yellow alien to #3 BD.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
  5.11c
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
  5.11c
This is a fun climb with good pro once you reach the bolt. The bolt protecting the optional .11 finish (which is the way to go, btw) may be in need of replacing. Nov 22, 2012
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I absolutely loved the moves on this route. The crack and above is a blast. Definitely finish the actual route and don't bail left to the finish of Desperation - there's more quality and tricky climbing up there. The sequence up to the anchors is fantastic and not obvious.

Be confident on 5.9 face climbing or don't lead this. The first 20' of climbing is trickier than it looks and a fall would not be good. I appreciate that the setters seem to make an effort limiting metal at this cliff, and that this is a "trad" route, but it seems to me that an additional bolt 12' up or so would be nice and could prevent an unnecessary accident. Dec 12, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
I'd agree that the bolt protecting the direct finish needs to be replaced. For now there is a bomber fixed nut directly above the first bolt. It is small enough to not effect the hold, though it is definitely safe to clip. Mar 14, 2016
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.11c
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.11c
To do that first 20' without running it out, you could warm up on Desperation, then while lowering hang a draw on BBB's first bolt and clip it to your line. Pull your line and voila.

What does BBB stand for, anyway? Mar 30, 2016
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
  5.11c
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
  5.11c
The route now has three new bolts. Hopefully it is now a safer lead. Apr 2, 2016