Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, Joe Cote?
Page Views: 2,809 total · 39/month
Shared By: And Partner on Jan 12, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

The obvious rounded arete that forms the center divider for the cliff.
Mostly if not all fixed gear (bolts and pins)

Location

Center of the cliff.
Starts off of the upper launch pad.

Protection

Bolts and Pins
Maybe a few pieces?

Photos

JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Yes! This felt 5.8 to me. Always thought this was 5.6 and was like damn! Beautiful route! Sep 16, 2012
that's what todd swain's old guide said as well, I dont buy it, the moves just getting to the first piece of gear are 5.7R at best, the crux is an awkward step up at the second bolt, beautiful route in a great setting. Sep 16, 2012
chinos
 
chinos  
 
i agree with burlap, no 5.6! maybe i was climbing the route wrong but it felt all of 5.8 to me... Sep 18, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I'll back up that every inch of an .8. Sep 20, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.8
My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route. May 9, 2013
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.8
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.8
trad lead...did you just forgo the bolts? last time I did this route I'm pretty sure it was bolted the whole way...unless I was on something else. or perhaps the bolts were chopped? Sep 19, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Really fun, sustained face climbing up an aesthetic feature in a scenic location. Loved the route!

It is 15-20 feet of 5.7 face climbing to the first piece of pro, which is a piton (looked pretty good). There may be marginal trad placements in flaring cracks on the way up to the piton, but I wouldn't count on it. I certainly didn't like anything I tried.

Also, if you start at the obvious belay spot on the launching pad there is really no way for the belayer to anchor in, so the consequences of a fall before clipping the piton would be disastrous for both. I would suggest starting about 15 feet lower so that the leader can get a good piece of pro in to at least protect from the climber and belayer falling off the launch pad. Looked like a #2 or #3 cam?

Regardless, be confident on 5.7 face climbing or don't lead this.

Everything after the piton is well protected. A .5 or #1 cam at the horizontal crack near the top might be nice, but I don't think it's necessary.

There is a two bolt anchor station on a ledge at the top of the route with ovals to rappel. It would be a little sketchy to climb down to this anchor ledge from the top of the cliff, or to climb up from the anchor ledge to the top unprotected, so I would caution someone who's plan is to walk off from the anchors. Nothing harder than a 5.5 move or two, but the consequence of a fall would most likely be death. If you plan to top-rope there are two bomber trees set back 30 or 40 feet from the edge at the top of the cliff that equalize perfectly over the route. It would be a better option that trying to downclimb to the anchors IMO.

All bolts looked shiny and new. Dec 12, 2015