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Routes in Stonehouse Pond

Geezer Pleaser T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Amazing Schlingazi, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
And Partner Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
BBB route, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bald Man In A Boat S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Hot Pocket S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Levy TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down By Law S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Joke Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luna S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nose , The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roost, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sicilian Olympics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Snake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Trundle Drunk Express T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Route S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We Could Eat Cereal T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FA -Karin Bates & Joe Terravecchia, 1992
Page Views: 1,521 total, 24/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Sep 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Locate a bolt just above small triangular roof at the base of the cliff. Pass the bolt on moderate 10- to thin cracks up to the main diagonal crack. Follow the crack switching to the higher crack mid route. The climbing here is sustained with a show stopper bouldery crux just below the last bolt.

Location

the second to last route on the farthest right wall of the main cliff at stonehouse - look for a bolt just above a small triangular roof on the right side of the cliff.

Protection

rack from green alien to #4 BD, one bolt on the bottom, one at the top.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.11a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.11a
Fun climbing. The top slopers are pumpy, imo Sep 1, 2017
Jon.R
 
Jon.R  
 
Did something break on this? Felt harder than Sicilian Olympics to me Sep 17, 2016
Joe Terravecchia
  5.10d
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.10d
Will and I climbed it today. Better than I had remembered and a good warm-up for the harder routes at the pond. Seems a little easier than say Lichen Delight on the Barber Wall. 11a imo. Sep 27, 2012
And Partner
  5.10d
And Partner  
  5.10d
gear
3 draws
(1) red C3, .5 .75 #1 #2
You can substitute extras in those sizes although this should probably suffice.
Sep 27, 2012
Joe Terravecchia
  5.10d
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.10d
I don't know if it was the FFA, but Karin Bates & I cleaned out the vegetation in the crack in 1992 and added the bolts after putting up Luna and Sicilian. Called it Flying Squirrel then after the critter that leaped out of the crack and glided into the trees on our first lead. I think it's probably 50' max as it starts uphill from Sicilian and Luna. Sep 15, 2012