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Routes in Stonehouse Pond

Geezer Pleaser T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Amazing Schlingazi, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
And Partner Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
BBB route, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bald Man In A Boat S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Hot Pocket S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Levy TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down By Law S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Joke Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luna S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nose , The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roost, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sicilian Olympics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Snake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Trundle Drunk Express T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Route S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We Could Eat Cereal T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Joe Terravecchia and Will Carey
Page Views: 3,348 total, 52/month
Shared By: Joe Terravecchia on Aug 20, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Great rock and wonderful varied climbing easily make this one of the best of the harder lines at Stonehouse. The route starts with a difficult sequence of underclings and crimps past 1 pin and 3 bolts to a sit down rest . Above, climb smooth marble like stone on good edges.

Location

Located on the gently overhanging wall on left side of the cliff. The route starts 20' right of the BBB Route ( a crack climb with a bolt at its base). Although partially shaded by large hemlocks, during the summer months this side of the cliff loses the sun entirely by around 1:00.

Protection

1 pin, 6 bolts and a .4 BD cam or medium sized nut for the horizontal near the top. LO Anchors.
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.13a
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.13a
Congrats Matt! Looks like a great line, can't wait to try it. May 16, 2016
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.13a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.13a
Finally sent this yesterday after lots of time spent sussing out the beta. Excellent, varied, techy climbing. First 5.13! Cheers to Joe and Will for putting up this gem. May 15, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Yah, after posing this question I rapped in to take a look at it, but didn't end up trying any of the moves because it was getting late. Based on that inspection and your description, it does appear more sustained in difficulty over the length of the route than I originally thought it might be looking at it from the ground. Perhaps a project for next year since I'm heading back to Colorado shortly. Nov 12, 2015
Three cruxes but I think most people would say the bit above the rest is the hardest. Nov 11, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Joe- Where's the crux on this route? Is it before the sit down rest or after? Or are both parts of similar difficulty?

Thanks! Oct 6, 2015
He is the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father except through him, or so I've heard. Sep 21, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Ha!

Moses Harry Horwitz. Aug 22, 2012