Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,580 total · 38/month
Shared By: Brendan Blanchard on May 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

The right facing corner in the middle of Stonehouse's main face.

Well protected laybacking up the full length of the corner. Starts at the base of the corner, follow up on laybacks and face holds behind and above you. Belay from a tree further back, or hand sized cams just below the top.

A variation goes from near the top of the corner, but traverses right after the vertical step. Makes for really fun, airy moves out right on good feet, with hands in a horizontal. Good gear, good hands, and an airy feeling. Great climbing, finish as for The Nose (5.8).

Location

The large right facing corner that starts on the left side of the large ledge that holds the start to Joke Book (5.9) and The Nose (5.8).

Walk off the top, or rappel off a tree back from the topout. No fixed anchor or slings/links/rings on the tree.

Protection

Single rack of camalots .3-2, nuts or hexes as you please. Two alright-looking fixed pitons mid-route. Smaller cams available, as is wider, but not necessary.

Photos

omcmahon
Nashua, NH
  5.6
omcmahon   Nashua, NH
  5.6
This is a good climb. It has some fun moves and great views. The start of the route is on a sloping ledge with a 20 foot cliff below, but there are some nice cracks to place gear if you want to secure yourself or your pack. Cooling off in the pond after climbing is really nice on a hot summer day.

We also did a slab climb, which was a bit harder, but doesn't seem to be listed. It starts on a prominent bulge between the corner and the Nose, and goes straight up. Jul 20, 2015
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.6
The middle slab is listed as either a 5.7 or 5.8 in the old guidebook depending on how far right you are. Both are nearly gearless, and considered TR lines. The one starting on the bulge is Son of Snake, somewhere in the 5.7-8 range, with a hard and always awkward mantle.

The next righthand route, nearly on the nose is called "Discipline" I believe, slightly harder again, and more of an eliminate than anything, though I haven't TR'd it. Jul 21, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Great quality climb. Fun moves, good rock, good protection start to finish, and a scenic location.

I did the handcrack traverse variation at the top and definitely recommend it. It didn't feel any harder than 5.6-5.7 to me, and protects very well. That variation ends up at the ledge at the top of The Nose which has a 2-bolt anchor station with oval rings. You may want to think twice about planning to walk off after climbing this variation, since getting from the anchor ledge to actual top of the cliff requires a couple of 5.5 moves with deadly consequences of a fall. You would be better off rapping.

Not a route you could really top-rope, or clean on lower. A leader and a follower is really the only way to go. Dec 12, 2015