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Routes in Stonehouse Pond

Geezer Pleaser T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Amazing Schlingazi, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
And Partner Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
BBB route, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bald Man In A Boat S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Hot Pocket S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barrington Levy TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down By Law S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Joke Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luna S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nose , The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roost, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sicilian Olympics S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Snake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Trundle Drunk Express T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Route S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We Could Eat Cereal T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,193 total, 39/month
Shared By: Brendan Blanchard on May 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The right facing corner in the middle of Stonehouse's main face.

Well protected laybacking up the full length of the corner. Starts at the base of the corner, follow up on laybacks and face holds behind and above you. Belay from a tree further back, or hand sized cams just below the top.

A variation goes from near the top of the corner, but traverses right after the vertical step. Makes for really fun, airy moves out right on good feet, with hands in a horizontal. Good gear, good hands, and an airy feeling. Great climbing, finish as for The Nose (5.8).

Location

The large right facing corner that starts on the left side of the large ledge that holds the start to Joke Book (5.9) and The Nose (5.8).

Walk off the top, or rappel off a tree back from the topout. No fixed anchor or slings/links/rings on the tree.

Protection

Single rack of camalots .3-2, nuts or hexes as you please. Two alright-looking fixed pitons mid-route. Smaller cams available, as is wider, but not necessary.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Great quality climb. Fun moves, good rock, good protection start to finish, and a scenic location.

I did the handcrack traverse variation at the top and definitely recommend it. It didn't feel any harder than 5.6-5.7 to me, and protects very well. That variation ends up at the ledge at the top of The Nose which has a 2-bolt anchor station with oval rings. You may want to think twice about planning to walk off after climbing this variation, since getting from the anchor ledge to actual top of the cliff requires a couple of 5.5 moves with deadly consequences of a fall. You would be better off rapping.

Not a route you could really top-rope, or clean on lower. A leader and a follower is really the only way to go. Dec 12, 2015
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
The middle slab is listed as either a 5.7 or 5.8 in the old guidebook depending on how far right you are. Both are nearly gearless, and considered TR lines. The one starting on the bulge is Son of Snake, somewhere in the 5.7-8 range, with a hard and always awkward mantle.

The next righthand route, nearly on the nose is called "Discipline" I believe, slightly harder again, and more of an eliminate than anything, though I haven't TR'd it. Jul 21, 2015
omcmahon
Nashua, NH
  5.6
omcmahon   Nashua, NH
  5.6
This is a good climb. It has some fun moves and great views. The start of the route is on a sloping ledge with a 20 foot cliff below, but there are some nice cracks to place gear if you want to secure yourself or your pack. Cooling off in the pond after climbing is really nice on a hot summer day.

We also did a slab climb, which was a bit harder, but doesn't seem to be listed. It starts on a prominent bulge between the corner and the Nose, and goes straight up. Jul 20, 2015