Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Loran Smith, Jim Dickson, and Joshua Corbett. November 23, 2012. (P2 Smith & Dickson 11-14-12)
Page Views: 620 total · 7/month
Shared By: Edge on Nov 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Climb the low angle, blunt arĂȘte to a ledge 25' up with two small oak trees. Follow the face behind the left oak past horizontals to a bulge with a fixed pin just over the lip. Clip the pin, then move right and up (5.5), or left and up a short flake over the lip (variation, 5.8). Belay directly above on a sloping ledge at a cluster of small maple trees.

P2. Climb straight up a low angle slab to the crux overlap and bulge, staying 10' left of the obvious flake system on "Relic" and 20' right of the shallow arching corner of "The Wayback Machine." Place pro at the lip of the overlap, then mantle over it and move up the steep slab (5.7+, crux) to horizontals and easier climbing. Continue straight up and slightly left on short, discontinuous diagonal finger cracks to finish below a large overhanging boulder at the top of the cliff. Move right to belay at the tree atop "Relic."

A fun, optional 5.7 finish moves up the 15' tall wide-hands crack that splits the boulder above the belay tree.

Location

Starts behind an oak tree growing next to the cliff just right of the wide crack start of "The Wayback Machine." Begin by climbing a low angle, blunt arĂȘte up to a ledge with two oak trees.
From the top of the cliff, either walk off left or rap with a 60m rope from the fixed anchors atop Relic.

Protection

Small-mid sized stoppers, cams from 3/8" to 2", fixed pin.

Photos