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Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall

An Aztec Nightmare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Begginer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comfortably Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earth and Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gloaming, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanta Yo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Islands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Heroes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Man Eater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Midnight Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Onslaught T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orthanc T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pirates of Longstack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Raven Song T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rawhide T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacred Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spirit Guide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Still Gettin' Booty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stroke, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strychnine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suicide Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sweat Lodge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tardis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terror Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toltec Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Underground T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wayback Machine, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Loran Smith, Jim Dickson, and Joshua Corbett. November 23, 2012. (P2 Smith & Dickson 11-14-12)
Page Views: 408 total, 7/month
Shared By: EDGE on Nov 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Climb the low angle, blunt arĂȘte to a ledge 25' up with two small oak trees. Follow the face behind the left oak past horizontals to a bulge with a fixed pin just over the lip. Clip the pin, then move right and up (5.5), or left and up a short flake over the lip (variation, 5.8). Belay directly above on a sloping ledge at a cluster of small maple trees.

P2. Climb straight up a low angle slab to the crux overlap and bulge, staying 10' left of the obvious flake system on "Relic" and 20' right of the shallow arching corner of "The Wayback Machine." Place pro at the lip of the overlap, then mantle over it and move up the steep slab (5.7+, crux) to horizontals and easier climbing. Continue straight up and slightly left on short, discontinuous diagonal finger cracks to finish below a large overhanging boulder at the top of the cliff. Move right to belay at the tree atop "Relic."

A fun, optional 5.7 finish moves up the 15' tall wide-hands crack that splits the boulder above the belay tree.

Location

Starts behind an oak tree growing next to the cliff just right of the wide crack start of "The Wayback Machine." Begin by climbing a low angle, blunt arĂȘte up to a ledge with two oak trees.
From the top of the cliff, either walk off left or rap with a 60m rope from the fixed anchors atop Relic.

Protection

Small-mid sized stoppers, cams from 3/8" to 2", fixed pin.

Photos

EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Now thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed, with an enjoyable starting pitch that makes the entire line independent for the height of the cliff. The second pitch has great gear, though a bit strenuous to place in spots, and the short diagonal finger cracks are great fun. Nov 23, 2012
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.7 PG13
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.7 PG13
He might be the oldest of the chinos but he still can crank Nov 17, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
At least they are refering to you EDGE and not me ! Nov 17, 2012
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.7 PG13
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.7 PG13
The elder is the true honey badger....he dosen`t give a shit Nov 16, 2012
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
Nice job. That just might be the last route to be done. Nov 16, 2012
EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Cleaned on the lead during the FA, this route has some interesting moves and would benefit from a top-down wire brushing session. The horizontal cracks above the crux were packed with moss and dirt which necessitated some inventive protection, garnering the PG rating. Cleaning the crack out properly may yield solid cam placements that were not possible during the FA. Nov 15, 2012