Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Loran Smith 1978 P2: Jason Denver & Sarah Arsenault
Page Views: 963 total · 12/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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This route starts in the vicinity of Midnight Special. P1: Climb up under the overlap and traverse right into a small right facing corner. Continue up changing corners to a blank slab. Move a bit left to a hidden flake and continue up and right to a bolt anchor. 100’ 5.8 PG-13
P2: Climb up the final headwall placing gear along the way to the top of the cliff. Climbing the face direct off the anchor is harder. Use a tree for an anchor. 50’ 5.8


Above the log hangout area


Standard Rack


joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.8 PG13
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.8 PG13
Thats awsome that Loran can come back after 33 years and lead this again great job! Aug 3, 2012
Jason Denver
Jason Denver   Wakefield
A hand-fist sized piece works good above the first pitch anchor to pull the roof directly around 5.10. Alternatively, skirting under the left side of the roof, moving up and steping out right on the face to regain the direct route feels super exposed and keeps the grade around 5.8. Another great route to do in a long pitch! Aug 4, 2012