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Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall

An Aztec Nightmare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Begginer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comfortably Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earth and Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gloaming, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanta Yo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Islands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Heroes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Man Eater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Midnight Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Onslaught T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orthanc T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pirates of Longstack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Raven Song T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rawhide T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacred Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spirit Guide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Still Gettin' Booty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stroke, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strychnine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suicide Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sweat Lodge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tardis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terror Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toltec Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Velvet Underground T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wayback Machine, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Loran Smith, Todd Swain & Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 562 total, 8/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start 15’ right of Hanta Yo.
P1: Start on blocky terrain and continue up the fat crack system until it ends. Make the crux slab move with a pine tree growing off the cliff to the tree ledge. Move up a slab to the right arching small corner. Climb the fun corner with holds out left to the pine tree anchor. 90’ 5.9
P2: Climb straight up and left on flakes in a clean streak to the top. 35’

Location

A blocky start with an obvious big crack above the approach trail

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

EDGE
Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.9-
EDGE   Between Nederland and Boulder,
  5.9-
Variation: "The Big Finish" (5.9 PG) FA by Jim Dickson and Loran Smith 11-23-2012.

An excellent addition to make a longer, more sustained pitch with committing and interesting moves at the 5.9 grade. From the top of the prominent arching corner, instead of trending left to the tree anchor, continue straight up to a steep headwall which is climbed directly via horizontals (5.7 PG) to a ledge. Directly above is an imposing overhanging block which is climbed by starting up a short slab, grabbing holds just left of the left arête, then boldly swinging up and right (5.9 PG) to a wide horizontal crack for the feet and easier climbing to the top.

For an excellent link-up at the 5.9 grade, begin on either "Hanta Yo" or "The Gloaming" to the tree ledge, then follow the slab and curving corner on "The Wayback Machine" to "The Big Finish." Three stars. Nov 23, 2012