Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Loran Smith, Todd Swain & Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 635 total · 8/month
Shared By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Start 15’ right of Hanta Yo.
P1: Start on blocky terrain and continue up the fat crack system until it ends. Make the crux slab move with a pine tree growing off the cliff to the tree ledge. Move up a slab to the right arching small corner. Climb the fun corner with holds out left to the pine tree anchor. 90’ 5.9
P2: Climb straight up and left on flakes in a clean streak to the top. 35’

Location

A blocky start with an obvious big crack above the approach trail

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Edge
R.I.P.
  5.9-
Edge   R.I.P.
  5.9-
Variation: "The Big Finish" (5.9 PG) FA by Jim Dickson and Loran Smith 11-23-2012.

An excellent addition to make a longer, more sustained pitch with committing and interesting moves at the 5.9 grade. From the top of the prominent arching corner, instead of trending left to the tree anchor, continue straight up to a steep headwall which is climbed directly via horizontals (5.7 PG) to a ledge. Directly above is an imposing overhanging block which is climbed by starting up a short slab, grabbing holds just left of the left arête, then boldly swinging up and right (5.9 PG) to a wide horizontal crack for the feet and easier climbing to the top.

For an excellent link-up at the 5.9 grade, begin on either "Hanta Yo" or "The Gloaming" to the tree ledge, then follow the slab and curving corner on "The Wayback Machine" to "The Big Finish." Three stars. Nov 23, 2012