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Routes in Potter Mountain Cliff

Brazilian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden of Leadin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Groovitational Pull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold It Like a Hamburger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Honeybadger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once in a Lifetime S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Piece Out S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poker Face S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Positive Latitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stop Making Sense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tailwinds T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Wild Things Are T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,269 total, 20/month
Shared By: Drake Pregnall on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1

Climb up the big boulder that is leaning against the cliff to the left of the high point where it touches the face. Placing a 3 inch cam here can take a lot of the pucker out of making the first clip. Traverse left 4 or 5 feet before climbing up the face to a bulging horizontal. Climb up through a short slabby section to a roof. This is a bad place to fall. Clip the last bolt, pull the roof, and belay on any of the oak trees on the big "GT Ledge" style ledge that can let you access other climbs in the area like Peace Out, Garden of Leadin, and Jug Or Not

Pitch 2

Depending on where you built your first belay, you may want to move it left so as to position you better for minimizing rope drag off the deck on this pitch. Climb straight up the face clipping several bolts until there are no more above you. At this point, move up high and left to the only two bolts to the anchors over the last large section of climbing. The runout is not to be underestimated, but the climbing truly is easy.

Location

At the left side of the clearing scattered with a lot of boulders. This route starts on the big one that leans up against the cliff.

Protection

Good number of draws. You will need to build a belay after the first pitch, but the top of the second has a fixed anchor with two fat bolts.

Photos

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Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.9+
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.9+
A good P1 leads to a great P2-edges, dimples, and a lower angle finish. Must do.
The trees at the top of P1 are garbage-we added a two bolt anchor this afternoon, and another two bolt anchor between Piece out and Garden of Leadin.
P1 is the best way to access the tree ledge, and you can do a bunch of pitches while you're up there. Oct 1, 2016
Jim Lawyer

  5.10a
Jim Lawyer    
  5.10a
Yes, trees at the top of P1. Jul 4, 2016
zwms  
Just to be clear... it sounds like there are trees at the top of P1 to build the belay? Does one need any other gear for that belay? Thanks! Jun 30, 2016
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
 
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
 
I found P1 to be varied but not exceptionally fun. However, the second pitch yielded beautiful and delicate climbing up perfect incuts. May 3, 2015