Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 653 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Mantel onto the ledge. (You can also traverse in from the right to avoid this move which makes the grade about 10b.) Work up to a right facing flake. Head right and then back left up the face. Use slings to avoid rope drag. Head up the left side of some boulders and eventually walk right on a low angled slab to the shared anchor with Stop Making Sense.

100 foot rap back to the ledge

Location

Climb the first pitch of Poker Face or Piece Out to access the large sloping ledge at the far left end of the Shangri-La area.

Protection

Draws

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Jim Lawyer    
 
Instead of going right to the anchors, you can go left to another set of anchors on top of Pothead (5.12a). This allows you to work that route on toprope, if that's desired. Sep 17, 2014
Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10a
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10a
An ok line amongst many great routes on this wall. The mantle move is quite easy if you're tall, and after that there is about 20' of interesting climbing. I didn't find any 5.10 climbing above the mantle. Oct 1, 2016