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Routes in Potter Mountain Cliff

Brazilian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ebb and Flow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden of Leadin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Groovitational Pull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold It Like a Hamburger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Honeybadger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once in a Lifetime S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Piece Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poker Face S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Positive Latitude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stop Making Sense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tailwinds T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Wild Things Are T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 380 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tad Welch, Tom Yandon, Jim Lawyer
Page Views: 831 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dom R on Oct 4, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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A nice easy way to the top of the cliff with mostly clean rock and a few exposed positions. Definitely worth hopping on if you're looking to cruise for the day.

P1 (5.8) - Do some interesting stemming at the mouth of the cave to surmount some boulders and then step right to the arete with bolts. (good nut placement in a boulder if you're nervous about moving to the arete, may cause rope drag though.) Make some 5.8 moves up the arete and past a second bolt until you gain a nice stance. From here take the cleanest/easiest path to the large oak with rap tat.

P2 - (5.4) Not a pitch for the budding leader but since it's 4 grades easier than the first pitch it should be fine for whoever led that. Scramble up to the large knobby flake, throw some gear in at the end of it or sling the flake (this is what I did) then go to the right rising off-width. Now in retrospect this crack can be extremely well protected but it would require you to drag size 4/5 camalots up the whole route. If you don't want to do this then just run it out and layback up the crack, gain the vegetation and bushwhack to the huge perfect ledge with bolts.

P3 - (5.7+) All bolt protection so leave your rack with your follower. Moving the belay down to the next ledge with a gear anchor in a corner will make rope management nice for this pitch. Traverse left on the ledge to a huge random block on the ledge above you. Mantle this then climb up the steep face. Once on the slab take the line of least resistance to the anchors on your left, (Shared with multiple lines on the left.

P4 - (5.7) Move up the bulge past a bolt, hit a piece of fixed pro, traverse right underneath the headwall, then move further right on some steep terrain until you can move left to a ledge and then gain the anchors that are shared with Brazilian and once in a lifetime.

Descent: two rappels takes you to the ground from here. The first one is 120' so a 60m may not work. the next is 100'


From the pancake flake of honey badger keep moving along the base of the cliff, past the routes groovitational pull and where the wild things are, to the mouth of a large cave (also the start for brazilian) you'll know you're there when you spot the two bolts on the righthand arete of the route. you can't miss them.


Just bring a light rack up to a 2 camalot.


petzl logic
Montreal, QC
petzl logic   Montreal, QC
this route is adventurous! Jun 18, 2018

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