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Areas in Silver Lake

C Chimney Cliff 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Center of Progress Cliff 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Midway Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Never Never Land 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Outback Slab 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Potter Mountain Cliff 5 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Purple Rain Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Summit Cliff 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Wayback Cliff 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Access Issue: There is presently no camping allowed at Silver Lake. There are some nearby campgrounds, though. Details

Description

New York State recently acquired an easement for public recreation to this 17,000 acre area. Known by locals simply as "Silver Lake", this area comprises 14 or more cliffs on two mountains -- Silver Lake Mountain and Potter Mountain.

Ice climbing at Silver Lake is here.

Beware of the bugs! The insect population is more abundant here than most other areas of the park. Spring and fall are the best times to visit.

Getting There

From Wilmington, take Bonnie View Road to its end, then left onto Silver Lake Road. Within 4 miles you'll see the cliffs on the right. Continue to the intersection with Turnpike Road, then to one of the trailheads:

Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead: From the intersection with Turnpike Road, go west on Silver Lake Road for 1.4 miles to the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead. A DEC sign marks the parking area. About 0.2 miles before the trailhead is a logging road on the right; this is the parking and access for Mud Pond and C Chimney Cliff.

Turnpike Road Trailhead: Follow Turnpike Road for 1 mile to a gated logging road on the left.

Goodrich Mills Trailhead: Follow Turnpike Road to a hairpin turn, where the road changes name to Goodrich Mills Road. At 2.8 miles is a logging road on the left.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Silver Lake Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Silver Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Stop Making Sense
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Poker Face
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Piece Out
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Honeybadger
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Groovitational Pull
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Green Mountain Boys
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Tears of Gaia
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Brazilian
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Where the Wild Things Are
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Positive Latitude
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Tailwinds
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Once in a Lifetime
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Garden of Leadin'
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stop Making Sense Potter Mtn Cliff
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Poker Face Potter Mtn Cliff
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Piece Out Potter Mtn Cliff
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Honeybadger Potter Mtn Cliff
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Groovitational Pull Potter Mtn Cliff
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Green Mountain Boys Summit Cliff
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tears of Gaia C Chimney Cliff
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Brazilian Potter Mtn Cliff
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Where the Wild Things Are Potter Mtn Cliff
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Positive Latitude Potter Mtn Cliff
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Tailwinds Potter Mtn Cliff
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Once in a Lifetime Potter Mtn Cliff
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Garden of Leadin' Potter Mtn Cliff
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Silver Lake »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jim Lawyer    
Oakcy: I've noticed this on other routes as well. Next time I go, I'll take a lightweight wrench and snug any that I find. (Perhaps others can do this too.) The fixed hardware is new and may take a while to seat properly. Jul 19, 2012
davidbr  
This post is directed primarily to anyone involved in the FA or the FFA of Sinner Repent at the Centre of Progress cliff.

I'd love to know why you chose to take the route out the ledge to the right and up the thinner crack rather than continue following the original wide crack to the top. To be honest, I was afraid of trying the bouldery moves off the ledge to gain the handcrack, and just went back into the wide one to the top. Anyone wanting to go that way will find a slung tree now (we made it down from there with double 70s, but be careful if using 60s).

None of that is intended as any sort of criticism (and someone who admittedly couldn't pull those moves off the ledge is in no position to criticise anyway). This is a fantastic route - congrats on putting it up. Nov 22, 2014
Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
Make sure to stop at Douglas Resort & Campground for a (ice cold) beer and a great calzone after a day of climbing at Silver Lake. The owners are friendly, the old wood building/bar is really nice, and there are tables by the lake. May 25, 2016
If you are jaded with New York climbing and need a .... "Holy Sh*t ,look at those cliffs !!!" moment ....drive up and gaze at Potter Mountain, it's hard not to be impressed.
I would highly suggest to confirm you're carrying a working GPS or compass when doing a Silver Lake climbing outing. There are numerous, intersecting logging trails, swamps, and mini trails everywhere ... super easy to get lost..... or "temporarily disorientated" ... climbers never get lost do they ? Jul 25, 2017
Unusual suggestion .... the thorny plants on the trails in (past the big wide logging roads) are sharp, vicious, and numerous. My thin nylon hiking pants were shredded. If I return, I will wear some sort of heavy shell pants, or even chaps .... the thorn bushes were that nasty. May 27, 2018
petzl logic
Montreal, QC
petzl logic   Montreal, QC
Does anyone know if the rules regarding camping have changed since the publishing of ADK Rock 2? It hints that the situation would become more lenient in the future, and if it is part of the park I don't see why the regular backcountry rules would not apply. Thanks! Jun 9, 2018
Jim Lawyer    
The cliffs of Silver Lake are on the Black Brook Tract, a property owned by Lyme Timber. There are no plans for NYS to acquire this property. The recreation easement is forever, though. The cabin leases are also, potentially, forever, and are between the cabin owners and the land owner (the timber company).

Any camping on the property will require a Recreation Management Plan (RMP), which has been in development for years and is still in development with low priority. Once completed, there will be a chance for public comment, and an opportunity for climbers to voice their opinions.

So yes, the "no camping" thing is [hopefully] temporary, but it's not going to be anytime soon. Jun 19, 2018

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