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Routes in Potter Mountain Cliff

Brazilian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden of Leadin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Groovitational Pull T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hold It Like a Hamburger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Honeybadger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once in a Lifetime S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Piece Out S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poker Face S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Positive Latitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stop Making Sense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tailwinds T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Wild Things Are T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 320 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,650 total, 40/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 21, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This full-length route has the best dimpled climbing in the Adirondacks.

P1 5.10b G: Go up the corner to its top (5.7), then go straight up the vertical face. At the top, work right (crux) to a dimple-pulling finish. Once on a ledge, scramble up and left to a fixed anchor. 160'

P2 5.9 PG: Go straight up to a flake, then right to a right-facing edge. Continue straight up black, dimpled awesomeness until you can runout up and right across the "triple R-K" (right rising ribbon of knobs). Mantel into a rust pocket, then go straight up. When the angle diminishes, run up to a headwall and make another move (hard only because of rope drag) to a fixed anchor. 160'

Descent: Rappel with two 60m ropes.

Location

Walk uphill and left along the base of the cliff for 15 minutes to an open area (the bombardment zone from winter ice) with a large pancake-shaped flake leaning against the wall. Begin 40' left of this on a ledge below a shallow right-facing corner.

Protection

P1 requires a couple nuts or cams for the 5.7 start, and a #1 Camalot for a directional at the top. For P2, it's nice to have a #2 Camalot. Otherwise, just draws.

Photos

Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10
Two fantastic pitches. The first pitch has great thin edges on a near vertical wall, and the second pitch wanders up a sea of dimples and dishes that reminded me of a Tuolumne knob climb.
These two pitches alone would be worth a 3 hr. drive and the hike in. Oct 1, 2016
Jim Lawyer    
 
P2 is one of the most amazing pitches anywhere. Super good dimple climbing. Sep 28, 2014