Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Matt Dobbs and Victoria de Quehen, July 1, 2018
Page Views: 309 total · 16/month
Shared By: Matt D on Jul 14, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs the black wave feature on a plumb line between Groovitational Pull and Where the Wild Things Are (WTWTA), sharing 3 points of protection with WTWTA.
This feature is often wet in early season. Being a straight line, it avoids the rope drag of WTWTA.

Climb the offwidth (5.6) 15' right of the WTWTA start to the prominent bushy ledge 15m up (or).

Continue up finger crimps and edges using the 4th-6th points of fixed protection on the black rock of "Where the Wild things are" to break through the steep headwall. Here WTWTA breaks out right. Instead, go straight up, joining the black streak on excellent wavy water-carved features and nubs past 5 points of fixed protection to the top (top anchor /rap station shared with Groovitational Pull).

The last 4m is 5.2 with good hand holds. There is a 0.5-1.5" (0.75 camalot) placement for a cam if additional protection is wanted .

Location


Start at the obvious offwidth 15' right of Where the Wild things are. The route crosses WTWTA above the steep section, to climb the black wave feature (often wet in early season) between Groovitational pull and Where the Wild Things Are.

Alternatively start on WTWTA, with one 0.5" cam and 3 points of fixed protection up to the ledge.

Protection

Mostly sport except the 4-5" cam in offwidth, (or 0.5-1" in crack rising low to its right), 0.5-2" cam above offwidth in horizontal, 8 quickdraws for the fixed points of protection above.

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