Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,555 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Sep 20, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Another fine route at Potter Mtn. Good protection, nice moves, and great views.

p1 10a Make a move to a pod in the left-rising crack (#3 cam). Move a bit right and up the face to a thin seam , then up to a finger crack which leads to a ledge. Make a hard move right off the ledge and continue straight up to a wide ledge and a fixed anchor. 140'

p2 5.9+ Carefully work up and left on flakes, then straight up to the top of a right-facing flake. Angle up and right to the base of a steep section in a water groove; make cool moves over this unique feature and then straight up to a fixed anchor. 120'

Location

In the Shangri La area 50 feet right of a large boulder pile at the left end of a horizontal crack at chest height. About 50 feet up is a prominent black streak.

Protection

The first 50-60 feet requires gear. #3 camalot, sml to med wires, and some finger sized cams. The rest of the climb is bolted including the belays. Double rope rappel.

Photos

Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
The guidebook says you could hit the ledge if you fall off the crux at the first bolt. I totally did that today ha, but the ledge is only like 3 ft. Under you and the cushy dirt makes a decent crash pad. Hard to read crux off the ledge but it's really cool. The whole first pitch is awesome, didn't get to do the second because it was wet but I'm sure it's just as good. The guidebook doesn't say how many bolts this route has but the first pitch has 6 after the ledge. I used a #3 Camalot, .75 Camalot and #2 Metolius to protect the trad section. Apr 16, 2016