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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,904 total · 87/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 5, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

Walk right and up of Finger Licker on a faint trail. You'll see The Hook (a left hooking OW), then two other slots. The right is Minotaur 5.8, the left is the Labyrinth. Climb up a 60' somewhat dirty slab/ramp towards the two chimneys. Pull over the block to get into the chimney. Climb the tight squeeze chimney by tunneling in about 40' to the back where a jam crack is found. Climb up 40' via the splitter in the back of the chimney to where you can tunnel even deeper into the wall to a small cave. From there chimney up the huge slot which takes smaller pro in a crack. This puts you on top of the Black September and Rated X. A fun climb for a really hot day, a great spot to chill. A must do even if the grade doesn't speak to you.

Protection

A few cams to 3".

Photos

Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
  5.6
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
  5.6
I'm 5'11" and 160lbs and couldn't fit in at the bottom of the squeeze. But it gets wider as it goes up, so after climbing up 5 feet I was able to get into it. Then after about 10 feet of going in, it gets wider everywhere so was able to drop down to the ground and walk to the rest of the way to the back.

If it's too hot to climb at black wall, this is a great way to cool off. Sep 5, 2017
My partner and I had the same experience as Sam when we tried this last year. Neither of us could get into the squeeze and my partner is skinny! We bailed on a cordalette around the block below the slot. Either we were off route, or we don't know how to get into squeeze chimneys (also likely as we're both new climbers). Aug 11, 2017
I'm a pretty thin person and I actually could not psychically get deeper than 5 feet in the squeeze, my partner couldn't even get into it. It's a shame because the route looks fricken amazing. Jun 30, 2017
M Alexander
SLO, CA
  5.6
M Alexander   SLO, CA
  5.6
Hilariously fun climb. Normally I avoid squeeze chimneys like the plague but this one was easy to protect with a hand crack in the first pitch and a finger crack in the second pitch. Do it! Aug 12, 2016
Zac Smith
Sacramento, CA
 
Zac Smith   Sacramento, CA
 
Probably a couple of different ways to run this one. We soloed up the easy 5.3 broken gully to the right of the diagonal crack and set up a somewhat awkward belay near the base of the squeeze chimney. Went through the first squeeze chimney and set up a belay in the large cave. For p2 we went up through the large vertical shaft at the far end of the cave. Probably only placed about 6-7 pieces total for both pitches. Super fun, definitely some adventure climbing. Jun 27, 2016
TomC
  5.6
TomC  
  5.6
Great climb! Definitely not 40' back or up, more like 20'-30'. Easy to do a single pitch to the ledge/cave at the top of the squeeze. Jun 23, 2015
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.6
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.6
Awesome!! A must do adventure!! Doesn't look like it but you can squeeze in down low. Definitely choose your own adventure!! Different chimneys through different passage ways.
Some sunglass in the crack at the back of the squeeze chimney. Need to bring something rigid like tent poles to snag them. Sep 7, 2014
AndrewB
Davis, CA
  5.7 R
AndrewB   Davis, CA
  5.7 R
I gave this a 5.7 R based on how we climbed the squeeze chimney on P2. The lowest section of the squeeze was too tight for us to traverse low, so we climbed 20 ft up on the outside edge of the squeeze to reach a wider section. Then we traversed the 40ft of squeeze to a stuck block, then up the 5 ft into the cavern. No pro that entire section up and through the squeeze, just made sure to keep myself partially stuck most of the time! We had 7 people in the cave at once, with plenty of room all over! We downclimbed to the rated X bolts, which rap to the bottom with a 70m. Sep 23, 2013