Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,301 total · 90/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 5, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Walk right and up of Finger Licker on a faint trail. You'll see The Hook (a left hooking OW), then two other slots. The right is Minotaur 5.8, the left is the Labyrinth. Climb up a 60' somewhat dirty slab/ramp towards the two chimneys. Pull over the block to get into the chimney. Climb the tight squeeze chimney by tunneling in about 40' to the back where a jam crack is found. Climb up 40' via the splitter in the back of the chimney to where you can tunnel even deeper into the wall to a small cave. From there chimney up the huge slot which takes smaller pro in a crack. This puts you on top of the Black September and Rated X. A fun climb for a really hot day, a great spot to chill. A must do even if the grade doesn't speak to you.

Protection

A few cams to 3".

Photos

AndrewB
Davis, CA
  5.7 R
AndrewB   Davis, CA
  5.7 R
I gave this a 5.7 R based on how we climbed the squeeze chimney on P2. The lowest section of the squeeze was too tight for us to traverse low, so we climbed 20 ft up on the outside edge of the squeeze to reach a wider section. Then we traversed the 40ft of squeeze to a stuck block, then up the 5 ft into the cavern. No pro that entire section up and through the squeeze, just made sure to keep myself partially stuck most of the time! We had 7 people in the cave at once, with plenty of room all over! We downclimbed to the rated X bolts, which rap to the bottom with a 70m. Sep 23, 2013
Logan Swartz
San Diego, CA
  5.6
Logan Swartz   San Diego, CA
  5.6
Awesome!! A must do adventure!! Doesn't look like it but you can squeeze in down low. Definitely choose your own adventure!! Different chimneys through different passage ways.
Some sunglass in the crack at the back of the squeeze chimney. Need to bring something rigid like tent poles to snag them. Sep 7, 2014
TomC
  5.6
TomC  
  5.6
Great climb! Definitely not 40' back or up, more like 20'-30'. Easy to do a single pitch to the ledge/cave at the top of the squeeze. Jun 23, 2015
Zac Smith
Sacramento, CA
 
Zac Smith   Sacramento, CA
 
Probably a couple of different ways to run this one. We soloed up the easy 5.3 broken gully to the right of the diagonal crack and set up a somewhat awkward belay near the base of the squeeze chimney. Went through the first squeeze chimney and set up a belay in the large cave. For p2 we went up through the large vertical shaft at the far end of the cave. Probably only placed about 6-7 pieces total for both pitches. Super fun, definitely some adventure climbing. Jun 27, 2016
M Alexander
SLO, CA
  5.6
M Alexander   SLO, CA
  5.6
Hilariously fun climb. Normally I avoid squeeze chimneys like the plague but this one was easy to protect with a hand crack in the first pitch and a finger crack in the second pitch. Do it! Aug 12, 2016
I'm a pretty thin person and I actually could not psychically get deeper than 5 feet in the squeeze, my partner couldn't even get into it. It's a shame because the route looks fricken amazing. Jun 30, 2017
Ben Taggart
San Francisco, CA
Ben Taggart   San Francisco, CA
My partner and I had the same experience as Sam when we tried this last year. Neither of us could get into the squeeze and my partner is skinny! We bailed on a cordalette around the block below the slot. Either we were off route, or we don't know how to get into squeeze chimneys (also likely as we're both new climbers). Aug 11, 2017
Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
  5.6
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
  5.6
I'm 5'11" and 160lbs and couldn't fit in at the bottom of the squeeze. But it gets wider as it goes up, so after climbing up 5 feet I was able to get into it. Then after about 10 feet of going in, it gets wider everywhere so was able to drop down to the ground and walk to the rest of the way to the back.

If it's too hot to climb at black wall, this is a great way to cool off. Sep 5, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Sounds like a lot of people once they tunnel through the main squeeze, and get to the main cave area, they continue towards the back (south) and exit that way. We instead exited from the end of the squeeze we went right, (west) to a dead vertical chimney shaft about 30-40ft tall that had a finger crack for pro. (Ends up behind a hand crack at the top) Very clean and was the highlight of the route for me. You can climb this shaft a thousand different ways probably. Hate OW and thought the squeeze was a bit stiff for 5.6 due to how tight it felt, and no pro for leader or follower. Definitely climb up 10 or so feet to get into it, entering at the base looks like a closterphobic cluster. Aug 1, 2018