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Routes in Right Side

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Zonker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Orey, 1977
Page Views: 1,759 total · 11/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 8, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

This route is on the WAY Right side of the black wall, and is a nearly horizontal roof that heads our for about 25 feet.

To access the route, Get over to the right side of the Black Wall, which is easy if you find the tiny hidden path, or really annoying if you don't. Finding the path along the base of the wall is easy, finding the path from the turnout is NOT.

Once you've found the right side of the wall, head up towards the overhang of Lightning Bolt Roof, which you can't miss. This is best accomplished by climbing the ramp to the right (5.6), which accesses the long crack known as Balck September (5.9+) and the sport route Summer Breeze (5.10c), or by walking up the broken 4th class crack from the left.

Lightning Bolt Roof is off-hand offwidth and less then ideal slopers for 20 feet, and then climbing eases at the second horn into a very fun but bizarre chimney.

Protection

Medium to Large Gear, with an emphasis on gear from 3 - 5".

Photos

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426
426  
Glad to see this thing uprated. Seemed very hard for the 11a rating in the old white guide.

  • **Spoiler alert*** do not read if you are an onsight purist.

Less offwidth, more of a fist crux. Secret hold inside allow tall guys to escape to the left quickly. Keep it together for the pumper finish. Yes, there's a no hands in there if you are savvy enough and don't clog the bad boy with gear...

Chain anchors as of a few years ago...you still have to turn the lip.

4 Camalots are best. We didn't use anything like a #5 on the crux, but you might throw it in up high(?) Mar 6, 2007
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.11c/d
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.11c/d
Super fun route. Gear recommendation: 2- 0.75 to 4. Nothing else needed. Definitely left some blood on this one..... Jul 17, 2017
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Hard. I tried this last weekend and for royally pummeled. You will not in any way regret tape or long pants for this guy, as I had neither. Good luck. Jul 21, 2017

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