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Routes in Right Side

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Zonker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dale Bard 1977
Page Views: 299 total · 4/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jun 30, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Walk up the approach ramp up and right past "Slipstream" several hundred feed. Keep going up and right until a brushy ledge system is reached. Go right until you find yourself under a 60' white detached tooth. The right side is "Full Tilt" and features a hard offwidth roof maybe 12 feet of the ground. The roof leads into an easier 5.8 dihedral. This climb is easy to toprope by chimneying the left side of the tooth, "Inside Out", and then climbing into and out the cave behind the tooth (5.6). Toprope/descend off chain anchors. A great location on Black Wall with views of Donner. The ratings in guidebooks are always off on this climb because it never gets a send. It is full on hard 11 OW roof.

Protection

Cams 2"-5.5".

Photos

This is easily toproped, but I recall from toprope soloing this thing a few years ago that the line rubs on a pretty sharp edge when weighted. Like I said, it's been a few years, so I can't recall the exact scenario, but I do recall getting good and spooked by it. Sep 3, 2013

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