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Routes in Black Wall - Right

Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Centex T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Energy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dale Bard 1977
Page Views: 319 total · 4/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jun 30, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Walk up the approach ramp up and right past "Slipstream" several hundred feed. Keep going up and right until a brushy ledge system is reached. Go right until you find yourself under a 60' white detached tooth. The right side is "Full Tilt" and features a hard offwidth roof maybe 12 feet of the ground. The roof leads into an easier 5.8 dihedral. This climb is easy to toprope by chimneying the left side of the tooth, "Inside Out", and then climbing into and out the cave behind the tooth (5.6). Toprope/descend off chain anchors. A great location on Black Wall with views of Donner. The ratings in guidebooks are always off on this climb because it never gets a send. It is full on hard 11 OW roof.

Protection

Cams 2"-5.5".

Photos

This is easily toproped, but I recall from toprope soloing this thing a few years ago that the line rubs on a pretty sharp edge when weighted. Like I said, it's been a few years, so I can't recall the exact scenario, but I do recall getting good and spooked by it. Sep 3, 2013

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