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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brian Biega, 1995
Page Views: 1,085 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 8, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Description

This excellent sport route on the far right side of the Black Wall, has a section of some of Tahoe's finest hard 5.10 face edging.

It is over a hundred feet tall, but can be led and toproped with a 70 m rope from the ground. If using a 60 m, no need for two ropes: belay from the ledge at the base of the two routes. It has ample and comfortable room for two people. A few small C3s or the like can make a decent belay anchor.

Climb the ramp up to the first bolt, which is roughly 50 feet off the ground. From here, vertical face climbing on small edges ensues up a black face, and doesn't let up until just before a solid rest edge some 50' later. Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary. It is possible to walk around to the right to access the top anchors, but this unprotected fourth class finish isn't in league with the rest of the climb and really cases rope drag.

Rappel or lower off, or walk off to the right.

Location

This route is directly right of Black September and shares an anchor.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anochor. NOTE - the last bolt on Carville's topo is no longer there.

If you want to climb the route from the ground, a small cam (_1") or two might make the initial ramp more comfortable.

Photos

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Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
"Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary"

Has anyone actually done this?

Also, +1 to the "letter grade or two harder than listed", but the last section is even harder, and there is no protection... so I wonder! It's weird that the bottom section is so well protected, the top seems way out of character with the rest. Aug 26, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Classic pebble pinching is to be found on this climb. The Black Wall has a grain akin to Tuolumne in places, and sometimes a box cutter of a crystal sticking out too: I found that "pain factor" was a much more salient metric than "pump factor" on at least one hold I misguidedly grasped. I'd put this at a letter grade or two higher than listed, but Summer Breeze may just want to keep its old school cred. And cred it has - that final run out on rock that's a bit rotten has a coal forming pucker factor that can only be savored on lead by hearts more stout than mine. I also blame my shoes ;).

Additionally, the "5.6 ramp" is actually only one of those descriptors. Very low 5th class, imo. Aug 24, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
To make finding the location more of a no-brainer, this route is directly right of Black September and shares an anchor.

It can be led/toproped with a 70 m from the ground. If using a 60 m, no need for two ropes: belay from the ledge at the base of the two routes. Contrary to what the route poster states, this ledge has ample and comfortable room for two people, although playing games like Twister or staging a boxing match are probably not good ideas. ;) A few small C3s or the like can make a decent anchor.
Nov 8, 2010