Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brian Biega, 1995
Page Views: 1,464 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 8, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

This excellent sport route on the far right side of the Black Wall, has a section of some of Tahoe's finest hard 5.10 face edging.

It is over a hundred feet tall, but can be led and toproped with a 70 m rope from the ground. If using a 60 m, no need for two ropes: belay from the ledge at the base of the two routes. It has ample and comfortable room for two people. A few small C3s or the like can make a decent belay anchor.

Climb the ramp up to the first bolt, which is roughly 50 feet off the ground. From here, vertical face climbing on small edges ensues up a black face, and doesn't let up until just before a solid rest edge some 50' later. Climb up the final 30' face to the top anchors which is unprotected 5.10, and quite scary. It is possible to walk around to the right to access the top anchors, but this unprotected fourth class finish isn't in league with the rest of the climb and really cases rope drag.

Rappel or lower off, or walk off to the right.

Location

This route is directly right of Black September and shares an anchor.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anochor. NOTE - the last bolt on Carville's topo is no longer there.

If you want to climb the route from the ground, a small cam (_1") or two might make the initial ramp more comfortable.

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