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Centerfold
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
FA: | Max Rodatz, 2008 |
Page Views: | 133 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | V.X. on Jul 3, 2012 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
TEMPORARY PEREGRINE FALCON CLOSURE ON BLACK WALL EFFECTIVE JUNE 14, 2017
Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 4:15pm
Temporary closure on the mid-section of Black Wall in effect as of June 14 because peregrine falcons are nesting under Sky Pilot. Both trail heads to Black Wall are posted with signs.
Affected routes are: Next, Birdy, All pitches on Imaginary Voyage and Super Slab
Thank you for respecting the seasonal closure.
Black Wall and nearby crags are a common nesting site for peregrine falcons.
The pair often nest in the ledge systems right of Touch and Go. If nesting activity/behavior is apparent please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid nearby climbing routes.
For more info: tdlandtrust.org/news/tempor…
Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 4:15pm
Temporary closure on the mid-section of Black Wall in effect as of June 14 because peregrine falcons are nesting under Sky Pilot. Both trail heads to Black Wall are posted with signs.
Affected routes are: Next, Birdy, All pitches on Imaginary Voyage and Super Slab
Thank you for respecting the seasonal closure.
Black Wall and nearby crags are a common nesting site for peregrine falcons.
The pair often nest in the ledge systems right of Touch and Go. If nesting activity/behavior is apparent please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid nearby climbing routes.
For more info: tdlandtrust.org/news/tempor…
Description
Climb the first half of "Porno Book" and set up a gear anchor in an acute gully below a diamond shaped face on the right. Keep looking right for a single bolt near a tiny horizontal seam. Climb the nonexistent horizontal seam out right on knobs and crimps to a vertical seam. Launch up the vertical crack. Place pro when you got it and keep looking for useable face holds. When the crack disappears, tiptoe out right on small holds. Pretty full-on from start to finish. Build gear anchor on top. Get a great preview of this climb from the "Full Tilt" ledges.
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