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> Black Wall - Right
Centerfold
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Black Wall - Right
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Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Centex T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Energy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | Max Rodatz, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 192 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | V.X. on Jul 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years.
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area
Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. The Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign, then purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs, in 2015.
Description
Climb the first half of "Porno Book" and set up a gear anchor in an acute gully below a diamond shaped face on the right. Keep looking right for a single bolt near a tiny horizontal seam. Climb the nonexistent horizontal seam out right on knobs and crimps to a vertical seam. Launch up the vertical crack. Place pro when you got it and keep looking for useable face holds. When the crack disappears, tiptoe out right on small holds. Pretty full-on from start to finish. Build gear anchor on top. Get a great preview of this climb from the "Full Tilt" ledges.
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