Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Max Jones, 1976
Page Views: 295 total · 32/month
Shared By: Kyle Swenson on Jun 29, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

An adventurous route to say the least. It is currently dirty and seldom climbed but should be cleaned up and climbed more often as it presents some adventurous climbing and a short wide section which is always good practice.

P1 (5.6): First pitch of Porno Book

P2 (Two Options) (5.9): The first option is a gear belay at the top of the gully under a roof with a right trending crack traverse to a bolt. I found this to be much harder than 5.9 and I down climbed to the second option at a rap station which then led up and to the right across a few bolts to the right side of a roof. Either option brings you to the same place. Keep trending right to a short crack, then left under a roof, and then up a steep double corner to a belay on a ledge.

P3 (5.8): Climb up the groove to the left of the belay and get into a wide flake which leads to an easy ramp to the top

Location

The start is about 100' left of Black September in a book that starts off as an easy gully. This pitch ends in two options.

Protection

Single rack to 5" (4" is acceptable with a small runout in the wide crack), doubles to 3", runners are necessary.

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