Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,959 total · 24/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on May 15, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


The crux is the overhang at the sixth bolt.

There are secondary cruxes at the third and seventh bolts.


This route is located between Middle Staircase and Mountainside Hipsters (renamed Aspen Fantasy Land). The route goes up left of the large roof which starts just east of where the approach trail meets the cliff.


8 or so draws. It shares a two bolt anchor with Middle Staircase, Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land), and Lucky Groove.


I tried to climb this the other day, and it felt like a 5.6...definitely not a 5.10. Am I missing something? I just followed the bolt line right of Alien Dave...looks to be about the same as in the picture. I was a bit left of the rope line in the picture at the bottom, but that's because the Aspen Fantasyland start is supposed to hug the left side of that roof, no?

Any suggestions? Have any of you climbed this and felt it was ~10b?

It's pretty hard to figure out which route is which between Intoxica and Aspen Fantasy Land with all the bolts around.... Nov 30, 2013
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
Sounds like you climbed Middle Staircase and not Intoxica. Middle Staircase is between Alien Dave and Intoxica. They share the same anchors on a large ledge.

Middle Staircase is indeed in the 5.6 range. Dec 18, 2014
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
Being lost is a problem when a dome such as "Beehive" is grid-bolted. My partners appreciate that there are an abundance of well-protected routes here. Easy to get lost, though. I'm probably the only one who would complain.... Although I enjoy being lost there. Jun 22, 2015
bart cubrich 1
bart cubrich 1  
This thing goes pretty safely on gear if you want to make it more fun. Bring a couple stoppers and couple small cams. Jun 25, 2015
Steven W  
Right anchor is loose and turns slightly. Didn't seem like the nut was loose, but I'm not sure. Jun 12, 2016