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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed Roof Problem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 8,793 ft
GPS: 41.229, -105.409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,342 total · 335/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki
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Description

An oddity for the 'Woo, Beehive Buttress features predominantly bolt protected sport climbing on granite more reminiscent of Boulder Canyon than the sharp, crystally slabs of the rest of the area. Instead of microscopic crimps on smeary slabs, expect jugs, slopers, positive crimps, and the odd solution pocket to leaven the face climbing. Situated in a quiet valley away from the maddening crowds, the Beehive Buttress is a great place to go for an afternoon while your gobies heal.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Getting There

Take Blair-Wallis Road from the Lincoln Monument towards the central area. Hang a left on 705J, then another left on 705JA until the road finally becomes too narrow to drive down. Follow a decommissioned but well-worn ATV trail until you reach the base of the wall.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beehive Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Priests are Perverts, Too
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Back to Bucket Country
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phipps' Gardens
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Five Days One Summer
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Groove
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fant…
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chivalry is Dead
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alien Dave
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intoxica
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walking the Board
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Noxious Invasives
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Telstar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Priests are Perverts, Too 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Monkey and the Engineer 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Rip Chords 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Back to Bucket Country 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Phipps' Gardens 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Five Days One Summer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Lucky Groove 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mountainside Hipsters (aka… 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Chivalry is Dead 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Alien Dave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Intoxica 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Walking the Board 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Noxious Invasives 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Telstar 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
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L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
The comments had me thinking this crag would be hard to find. It's not, or not anymore. 705J is marked now, and the roads are rocky and rutted but not nearly as bad as some. You do need a high clearance vehicle for 705J and 705JA, which ends in an obvious parking loop. My Honda Element did just fine. From the parking, it's a 10-15 minute hike up to the base on a trail that now appears to be closed to motorized vehicles - I assume this is the "ATV trail" mentioned in the description. You can see Beehive Buttress from the trail. You'll drive past one pit toilet as you first enter the recreation area off the highway (a few miles from Beehive Buttress itself). There are no facilities near the crag. Jul 25, 2016
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The Beehive is the *only* easily accessed, easy to moderate sport climbing area in all of southeast Wyoming. Since its discovery, it has become the area of choice to take new climbers, so I really don't recommend going on a weekend, any time the road is open. Best time to hit it: shortly after sunrise, on a Tuesday, when you need snowshoes to make the approach. Sep 6, 2014
DawsAnie
Fort Collins, CO
DawsAnie   Fort Collins, CO
Is this area frequently visited by Boy Scout troops or did we just happen to check this area out on the same day as a ton of youngsters? I'm all for kids learning how to climb, but when they take over an entire crag with their stuff and yell constantly, it's less than pleasant. :( Sep 6, 2014
Bart Kensinger
Salt Lake City, Utah
Bart Kensinger   Salt Lake City, Utah
This place is super fun and a very nice break from the sharp and awesome Vedauwoo granite. The bolts are close, there are jugs everywhere, and it's all slabby. The hardest thing at the crag was a stray mini-pincher/chihuahua mix that was flexing on us for our canned chicken.

On a side note, this place is really hard to find. Maybe ask a local to drop a pin on the parking lot for you. You can see the place from afar, so you won't get lost once you find the trail. Jul 23, 2014
krisliane
Boulder, CO
krisliane   Boulder, CO
Does anyone know if there is decent camping off the FS road good enough to take a group of kids so that we could towrope at this area? Jul 22, 2014
shanna fitzgerald
Boulder, CO
shanna fitzgerald   Boulder, CO
As of 7/19/2014, 705J is unmarked and quick to miss, because it's so rutted out. It looks like a tough and steep 4x4 road, that most cars wouldn't want to head up. It gets better as you clear the steep part. 705JA is still marked and to the left. Expect uneven terrain and deep mud puddles. Jul 21, 2014
Nicholas Brown
Laramie, WY
Nicholas Brown   Laramie, WY


This is a bolted route that my climbing partner, Jeff, led, but we can not find the route on here or in a book. Can someone please help and ID it? It seemed to start right of Aspen Fantasy Land and then meet back up with it by the middle of the route. Aug 11, 2013

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