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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed Roof Problem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 105 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,155 total, 25/month
Shared By: Scott Coffin on Nov 10, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Awesome route! The first pitch is a cruiser (5.7+, very well bolted). The second pitch is where the real fun starts (some exposure). Also, you can't see your partner for 70% of climb.

Location

It shares an anchor with "Fun Button" and starts just left of "Fun Button."

Protection

Bring a few quickdraws. There is a 2 bolt anchors at the top of each pitch.

Photos

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bart cubrich 1
  5.8+
bart cubrich 1  
  5.8+
The route isn't even close to runout. It's probably (like everything else here) overbolted, if anything. On the other hand, safety first. Can be climbed as a single pitch, use a long (3ft) runner at the first anchors, and long slings when possible. I rapped with a single 60m. Jul 15, 2015
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.8
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.8
Seemed quite easy to stop and place that pro. Also I remember doing 1 rap with a 70m and being just fine. Oct 19, 2012
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This route is not runout. The crux of the second pitch is above the 3rd bolt, and you have to make a few moves above the bolt, but a fall here would be safe.

Placing a #1 would require stopping in the middle of hard moves when you are only a couple of moves from really good hand and foot holds.

Our 60m rope almost made it to the ground (4' short) from the bolts at the end of the second pitch, so it should be possible to reach the ground with a 70m, but double check before committing. Oct 1, 2012
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.8
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.8
Did this route a few years ago, the 2nd pitch was pimp. I used a #1 for the run out section. Jun 14, 2012