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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FKA: Bob Stuckert, Josh Porter, and Zach Orenczak
Page Views: 2,394 total · 25/month
Shared By: Whitham on Oct 21, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a fun climb. Start at the left-most low bolt on the main wall of the beehive, just left of Mountainside Hipsters. Continue straight up with nice hands and feet for 5 or so bolts and climb the staircase right to the anchors (which are shared with MH and Lucky Groove).

Per Arlo F Niederer: other routes have been squeezed in to the left, so the description of the location is different now. It is between "Alien Dave" and "Intoxica".

Protection

10 draws, including two for the anchor. Might want to leave some of the upper 3-4 draws as directionals if toproping to minimize pendulums.

Photos

Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Other routes have been squeezed in to the left, so the description of how to find the route doesn't apply.

Route is between "Alien Dave" and "Intoxica" in "The Voo" guide.

Not very sustained, crux a couple of easy mantles near the top.

I found the picture of the initial bolt useful to find the route.

The 2011 "Voo" guide by Orenczak and Lynn has a photo of routes taken from a distance, difficult to identify routes with. Even harder since other ones have been squeezed in.

Middle staircase is not included in "The Voo," and to add to the confusion, the Mountainside Hipsters route name has been changed to Aspen Fantasy Land, I assume because it was retro bolted after being initially climbed as a trad route. Apr 26, 2012

More About Middle Staircase

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