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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed Roof Problem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Ryan Larid
Page Views: 2,457 total · 22/month
Shared By: kevin fox on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The route's crux is at the start.

Location

As per Zach's book, this goes from right to left and follows a water streak. There is an overhang to the left of the route.

Protection

Bolts. The anchors at the top are cold shuts.

Photos

Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
A fun, consistent, and elegant line. The best quality climb on Beehive.

The crux move is a power move right off the ground on good holds, but it doesn't have a boring easy section like "Back to Bucket Country" or "Alien Dave" have.

"The Voo" guide shows this climb ending at the same anchors as "Aspen Fantasy Land" and "Intoxica," and it can be climbed that way.

However there are two additional bolts leading straight above the groove which go straight up to another set of anchors. A better choice.

The groove is formed by a pegmatitic intrusive dike of pink orthoclase and quartz, probably the same composition granite as the main Vedauwoo area rock. Beehive is a gray granite with plagioclase instead of orthoclase...and why it weathers differently. For those amateur geologist climber types who wonder why this rock is so different from the rest of Vedauwoo.... Jul 30, 2012
ryan laird
Denver, CO
ryan laird   Denver, CO
The correct name of this route is "Lucky Groove", as it follows a water groove trending left. The route was retrobolted and is lead on all QDs. If TR'ing, clip the second bolt as a directional.

Ryan Laird Sep 16, 2008