Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Karl, Eric Deburgh, Zach Orenczak, Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 1,783 total · 22/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on May 17, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The crux is at the fourth bolt, a series of balancy smears, more typical of granite face climbing than other routes on Beehive. The Voo guide describes them as "tricky footwork."

There are three high step moves to get to the crux, all 5.8/5.9.

Location

This route climbs the arete at the right end of the cliff to the anchors for Rip Chords and Gypsie Fire.

Protection

6 draws plus draws for the anchors.

Photos

Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10a
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10a
My partner and I tried this route this morning with him leading. He went left at the crux, turning this route into more a 5.9. I went into the crux using the arete, which makes it much trickier. Find the good feet and make a balancy half mantle type move to stand up and you should be through it.

On another note, don't TR this route. A fall at the crux leads to a really nasty swing (as evidenced by yours truly). Aug 4, 2013
Dave Bn
Fort Collins, CO
 
Dave Bn   Fort Collins, CO
 
I felt a directional on the second to last bolt made this route very top-ropeable.

Agreed that going left eases up the crux substantially. Puts it more in the 5.8 range. Move past the first bolt is pretty fun. Sep 8, 2013
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun climb! Start is intimidating, but it goes.

As per the "swing". Yes, this is an example of one of the downfalls (IMHO) of this crag in that it could maybe stand a couple of more anchors. For example, there are 3 routes (maybe 4?) that share the same anchor here. It turned out no one else wanted to follow or climb this route after I topped out so made for a pretty challenging rappel to get my draws back. Sep 8, 2013
Vardan Ter-Antonyan
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a PG13
Vardan Ter-Antonyan   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a PG13
This one is an awesome climb. The crux on the arete is difficult but amazing. A true 5.10a for sure. Leading it is fun. Enjoyed every second of it. Once the crux is climbed, it gets easy. Aug 29, 2014
Kenneth Rogowski
Fort Collins
Kenneth Rogowski   Fort Collins
Hey Dwboersma, is the beehive devoid of humans from your experience? Thanks! Aug 10, 2015
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Kenneth, the Beehive tends to be the most crowded area at Vedauwoo most weekends, afternoons, or anytime people can get away from work. It even beats out the Friday the 13th alcove in terms of human density. Go early, or go elsewhere if you want to climb. Aug 12, 2015
Bit of a traverse left from the last bolt to the anchors. I agree that this route really could use its own anchors. Jun 12, 2016