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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed Roof Problem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Orenczak & Lynn
Page Views: 1,260 total, 16/month
Shared By: JFM on Aug 26, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Start on a short, pocketed face, then climb through a series of shelves on solid, grippy rock. Surmount a bulge and finish at bolted anchors. It appears that one set of anchor bolts has been previously removed, but there's another set up there.

From Arlo N.: This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.

Location

Upon reaching the top of the approach trail, step up and to the left to a wide shelf and walk about 20 feet. This should be the 3rd bolt-line from the step-up.

Protection

About 8 hangers before a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
TLDR: I'm pretty sure Madiera Beach is the 3rd bolt line from the left, and Safari Winch Ride which is 4th from the left.

I think Safari Winch Ride and Madeira Beach are reversed in order in the route list here on Mountain Project and also in The Voo guidebook. Currently both soures show Safari Winch Ride (5.8) as the 3rd climb from the left edge of the wall and Madiera Beach (5.7) as the fourth. Of these two climbs, which go to the same set of anchors, the climb on the left is significantly easier than the one to the right. Plus, the "location" information in the route description says Safari Winch ride is the FOURTH set of bolts from the left, while Madiera Beach says it's the THIRD set of bolts from the left. This supports the idea that Madiera Beach is to the left of Safari Winch Ride. Maybe someone who is more familiar with the area can correct me if I'm wrong. Jul 25, 2016
I think this route used to have dedicated anchors, but it doesn't now. There are two threaded bolts sticking out of the rock with nothing on them. Fortunately, there are anchors for neighboring routes on both sides. A directional may be needed if setting up TR. Jun 12, 2016
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.

There is more loose rock than it looks like on the face...be careful if anyone is down below. Oct 6, 2011