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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed Roof Problem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Zach Orenczak, 2002
Page Views: 1,860 total · 21/month
Shared By: Scott Coffin on Nov 10, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The crux is the very first move; really fun! Solid 5.9 climbing until the end. The last 10 feet/"ledge" feels like a water slide (sans water).

Location

Start directly under the VERY prominent roof about 70 feet up.

Protection

This is very well bolted. It has a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Pretty good. Oct 19, 2012
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
This climb is called "Muscle Beach" in Zach Orenczak's "The Voo" guide. Another example of a confusing name change from the FA toprope to the bolted sport climb. (Several of the climbs on Mountain Project use the FA ascent names, not the names given after the route was bolted).

Ther crux is near the ground, a strenuous pull/dyno on a good hold over a bulge to another good hold.

The next roof is interesting, probably 5.9+/5.10a.

A "new" set of anchors is in the water groove about 10 feet below the prominent roof above the climb. The right bolt was a little loose, the left bolt has a thin hanger, not an anchor hanger. It has turnbuckle links to attach the rope to but not really equalizing. Also, it has what appear to be aluminum rappel rings.

These anchors are where the second pitch of "Five Days One Summer" starts. As an alternative, continue up the groove to the roof, where there are anchors at the top of "Misirlou." Jul 30, 2012