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Routes in Beehive Buttress

Alien Dave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to Bucket Country S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chivalry is Dead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Days One Summer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsie Fire S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intoxica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucky Groove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madiera Beach S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mavericks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Staircase S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey and the Engineer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Hangover AKA Can Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Noxious Invasives S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phipps' Gardens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Priests are Perverts, Too S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rip Chords S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Safari Winch Ride S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfaris S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Telstar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walk on the Wild Side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Walking the Board S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 1,669 total · 21/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on May 17, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


The crux is at the fifth bolt. If you go straight up at the bolt, it is harder than 5.5. It is easier if you step to the right.


This route goes up a lower angled, featured portion of the cliff just right of the large twin roofs near the right end of the cliff.


6 draws plus draws for the anchor.


jd Woelfle
Loveland, CO
jd Woelfle   Loveland, CO
This certainly seemed much harder than 5.5, after the first few clips, sticking close to the bolts. Jul 14, 2013
Sean Peter
Sean Peter   IL
Chose this for my first lead ever - moved over to the "5.6" to the right when this one got much more runout and tricky at the 5th bolt. The 5.6 next to it is more like a 5.4. Still this is an easy climb- but wanted really easy for my first lead :) Aug 15, 2013
Dave Bn
Fort Collins, CO
Dave Bn   Fort Collins, CO
Skip the first bolt or bring shoulder length draws for the first two bolts.

98% of this route is 5.5. The move past the fifth bolt, however, is not. Sep 8, 2013
I climbed this on Saturday (7/11/15), and the nut on the last bolt was not even finger tight. I tightened it as much as possible with my fingers, because I didn't have any tools with me, but the next person up it might consider bringing a wrench. All the hardware appeared to be in good condition, just needs tightening. Jul 13, 2015
Confirmed. Last bolt is still loose (6/12/2016). Jun 12, 2016
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
I agree with previous commenters that Rip Chords is easier to lead than this one. Jul 25, 2016
Hansen Wendlandt  
Rather absurd that the book has Gypsie as a 5.5 and Rip as 5.6.

If you stay on line, Gypsie is easily 5.7 (8+ in Boulder Canyon), and there was only one move that felt more than 5.4 in Rip Chords. Jul 22, 2018

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