Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 1,680 total · 21/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on May 17, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The crux is at the fifth bolt. If you go straight up at the bolt, it is harder than 5.5. It is easier if you step to the right.

Location

This route goes up a lower angled, featured portion of the cliff just right of the large twin roofs near the right end of the cliff.

Protection

6 draws plus draws for the anchor.

Photos

jd Woelfle
Loveland, CO
 
jd Woelfle   Loveland, CO
 
This certainly seemed much harder than 5.5, after the first few clips, sticking close to the bolts. Jul 14, 2013
Sean Peter
IL
 
Sean Peter   IL
 
Chose this for my first lead ever - moved over to the "5.6" to the right when this one got much more runout and tricky at the 5th bolt. The 5.6 next to it is more like a 5.4. Still this is an easy climb- but wanted really easy for my first lead :) Aug 15, 2013
Dave Bn
Boise, ID
  5.7
Dave Bn   Boise, ID
  5.7
Skip the first bolt or bring shoulder length draws for the first two bolts.

98% of this route is 5.5. The move past the fifth bolt, however, is not. Sep 8, 2013
KyleS  
I climbed this on Saturday (7/11/15), and the nut on the last bolt was not even finger tight. I tightened it as much as possible with my fingers, because I didn't have any tools with me, but the next person up it might consider bringing a wrench. All the hardware appeared to be in good condition, just needs tightening. Jul 13, 2015
Confirmed. Last bolt is still loose (6/12/2016). Jun 12, 2016
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
I agree with previous commenters that Rip Chords is easier to lead than this one. Jul 25, 2016
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.8+
Rather absurd that the book has Gypsie as a 5.5 and Rip as 5.6.

If you stay on line, Gypsie is easily 5.7 (8+ in Boulder Canyon), and there was only one move that felt more than 5.4 in Rip Chords. Jul 22, 2018