Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D?
Page Views: 770 total · 9/month
Shared By: gordwah on Feb 18, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This is located at the far right side of Spiney Ridge. This has a steep layback to a power crux at the second bolt. Get a good rest on the rail, then figure out your beta, and go for it to an ok jug and clip. The rest is fairly easy and fun. At the dihedral at the top, stay in it until you get to a large, juggy rail above and left of the anchors and slowly traverse to the rusty cold-shut anchors.

Location

This is at the right side of Spiney Ridge. It is the obvious line that finishes on a big, left-facing dihedral.

Protection

3/4 to 1 inch cam in the middle at the runout (8-10 draws).

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slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Probably a good idea to stick clip the first bolt - the layback flake that gets you there and you tug on while clipping is really poor rock quality. The climbing is decent, but a lot of the rock was flaking and chunking off. Incredibly soft for the grade (12b in the last 2 guidebooks). Probably closer to 11b, but my partner thought it impolite to downgrade a route by a full number grade. Mar 7, 2012
gordwah
colorado
  5.11d
gordwah   colorado
  5.11d
I agree. This route is probably close to 11b. If it was filed and cleaned, it would be a 4 or 5 star route. Mar 31, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Filed? May 1, 2012
b hof
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.11c
b hof   Santa Clarita, CA
  5.11c
The first half is a choss pile, and the second half is less than par. It doesn't matter how much you "filed" this route, it would still suck! Jan 17, 2013