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Routes in Spiney Ridge

20th Century Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Access All Areas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Applauding Eagle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De Gaulle Syndrome S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Down n' Dirty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fight Club S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Grenade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hourglass, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurricane, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Keystone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leaning Tower S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Nalalator S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Purple Toe Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quoting Yoda S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Return of the Headhunters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short & Sweet S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone of Ignorance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Straight Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxxxic Entertainment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tractatus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Travis is Sole King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Trimmer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Robertson, 1999
Page Views: 3,459 total, 21/month
Shared By: Levi Wilner on Aug 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start between Travis Is Soul King and Toxxxic Entertainment. As a whole, the climb is pretty juggy (for taller people). The first few moves are easy 8ish. Clips are pumpy the last half because of the overhang. Move right after the 4th? bolt and then left. It has a nice mix of face and layback.

The new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails.

Protection

10 bolts.
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
^^^ Toxxic and Toenails are not reversed in the D'Antonio guidebook like stated above. I tried to locate them based on that info and had a hard time, but I finally figured it out, the routes as marked in D'Antonio's photo are shifted too far right. In the photo, "Travis Is Sole King" should actually be between #13 and #14 (as currently marked in the photo), the route marked as #15 in the photo is Purple Toenail, the route marked as #16 in the photo is Toxxxic Entertainment (and doesn't go as high as drawn in the photo). The route marked as #17 and #18 in the photo doesn't exist as far as I know, Nalalator (#18) should be marked to the right of #16 in the current photo, ending at the same anchor which is right below the inversed "L" in the rock. Confused yet? Dec 14, 2015
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11c
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11c
Ditto the post on the guidebook error. Toxxic and Toenails are reversed in the book. Toxxic is to the right, and has the cool flake halfway up. It's also a fun route.

Purple Toe Nails is a mighty fine route. Nothing too technical, but any errors are immediately compounded by the sustained pump factor in the last 20-25 feet of climbing.

Exciting, sustained, well-bolted, classic Shelf stuff. Sep 29, 2013
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Straight up at the 7th works well if you take your time at the rest and plan it out a bit. The problem with going way out right is that you can get marooned - and have a tough time getting back left to clip. Having done it both ways, I think straight up is more efficient, but you have that first pocket that you have to crank on.

Damn, that last bit is pumpy. Mar 19, 2012
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
 
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
 
Guidebook error: FYI, the new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails. Caution here as to not head up Purple Toe Nails expecting it to be a *** 5.10a. Oct 19, 2011
Tzilla Rapdrilla
  5.11c
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
  5.11c
Going straight up at the 7th bolt didn't seem beyond 11c to me. There is a sort of hidden pocket right under the second bolt in the bulge section that could easily be covered by the draw. Fun route! Dec 16, 2010
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
Thanks Joe, that is right where I was talking about. I tried going straight up several times and it is harder than I can climb. Just felt kind of out of character to traverse to the right at that point. Feb 18, 2009
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11c
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11c
Got your post a few hours too late David! Did the route again today and realized the (I think) now obvious spot you're talking about. In the vicinity of the 7th bolt (not 4th as the description says), the 11c path certainly seems to be a traverse right then back left to stay on big chalked holds. Haven't tried the straight up path, but it sure looks harder and less traveled. Feb 17, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
Joe, when you got to the ledge with 2 bolts left did you just go straight up or move right then left? Could you tape it for me next time? Great thanks, just kidding. Feb 17, 2009
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11c
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11c
David: definitely off route...didn't you see the blue taped holds? Just kidding, sort of. Are you talking about the very last bolt or two? I seem to find myself left of the penultimate bolt, then clipping the final bolt from a position to the left of it, then using some hand holds out right along with the crack/flake to the left of the bolts (body basically right above the last bolt) to finish.

Fantastic climb: huge holds all over, the occasional hand jam, easy start to a 50 foot endurance crux. Love it. Feb 16, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
Just wondering if the correct way to do this route is going right over the bulge? Seems like it's out of the way of the bolt line, however, going right over the bulge off the 2 finger pocket seems to be harder than 11b/c. Just curious if moving right over the bulge is correct or considered off route? Stellar climbing regardless. Sep 7, 2008
I really enjoyed this route. It felt somewhat trad in nature (except of course for the bolts). Jan 20, 2005