Type: Sport
FA: Rick Thompson
Page Views: 1,665 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jerad Friedrichs on Nov 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is an outstanding route well worth the effort. It is rather void of the typical piss Shelf holds and will tax your body, not your fingers. The crux starts with the first 2 bolts and can be quite a reach for those that are shorter. To follow are a few strenuous lieback moves to a really good flake system. Be careful here, I can see this block coming off one day. An almost no hands rest awaits before fighting the pump to the top on good holds. This route will be a classic with more traffic.

Location

This is the second route from the end of Spiney Ridge in between Quoting Yoda and De Gaulle Syndrome.

Protection

11 bolts. This climb is well-protected.

Photos

Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
Gets 12d/13a in the new guidebook. Not sure what grade is true, felt pretty hard for 12c. May 6, 2013
Thays Matthew
  5.12b/c
Thays Matthew  
  5.12b/c
I got on Head Cheese right after this and compared to that, I definitely agree with the 12b/c rating. Apr 13, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route! Needs to clean up a little bit with some more people on it, but I would give it classic status. The bottom is a bit chossy, but the rock quality improves with every bolt clipped. From the rest at the ledge, the white stone on the upper head wall is gorgeous, and the moves are cool. I think 12b/c is spot on. I thought the route was much easier than Ejection Seat, Sparkle in the Rain, Surreal Estate, the French Are Here and other area classics. Definitely nowhere near the difficulty of say Head Cheese. If you're short, the start could pose some problems.... Great fun! Jan 11, 2015
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Probably consensus 12c, no doubt a classic for the area!

FA: Rick Thompson (with equipping help from Mark Rolofson) Jun 25, 2015
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Oh boy. From the flake to the top was very fun, but the bottom sequence felt pretty stiff. Then again, I'm a bit short. Anyway, this route includes an unobvious bouldery start, which is pretty neat, and pretty unique for the area! Give it a shot, it's a lot of fun! Mar 25, 2018
C Z
C Z  
I think this route is definitely height dependent and the grade reflects. Being shorter it defeimitely felt closer spot on for a 12c 5 hours ago