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Routes in Spiney Ridge

20th Century Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Access All Areas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Applauding Eagle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstand T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corrugation Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De Gaulle Syndrome S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Down n' Dirty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fight Club S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Grenade S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hourglass, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurricane, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Keystone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leaning Tower S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Nalalator S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Purple Toe Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quoting Yoda S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Return of the Headhunters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short & Sweet S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone of Ignorance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Straight Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxxxic Entertainment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tractatus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Travis is Sole King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Trimmer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10 S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 3,754 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brad Short on Apr 19, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start at a small, left-facing corner, working your way up to a reasonable stance below the obvious, layback flake. Power up the layback (with reasonable feet after the first moves) and stretch right to the anchors shared with Nalalator.

It is a fun climb, and the layback is not all that pumpy if a good pace is maintained. This is a well-protected route.

The new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails.

Location

This is two routes right of Travis is Soul King.

Protection

8 bolts plus anchors.
Darin Lang
  5.10a
Darin Lang  
  5.10a
You can double your fun on this one by jamming the layback flack. Stellar hand jams, and much more skin-friendly than most at Shelf. Apr 21, 2003
Darin Lang
  5.10a
Darin Lang  
  5.10a
I meant layback "flake", of course. Apr 21, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Super fun! The flake has a good edge all the way up, and the airy layback makes this one of the best 10a routes on the cliff. Oct 15, 2003
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
I agree - excellent and really fun climbing. My thanks to the FA's. Also, perfectly bolted (i.e. very safe) for the nascent 5.10 leader. Jun 4, 2004
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Way fun climb! A must do. 10a may be a letter grade soft. This felt a lot like Crack of Dawn 10b, so 10a/b I think is fair. Little mix up in Bob D.'s guidebook with this one and Purple Toenails 11c, so heads up. Nov 9, 2013
Great climb! Definitely a must do.
BEWARE: climbed today, found out the hard way that there is a swift bird's nest in the crack. Found myself being dive bombed by a swarm of swifts trying to protect the nest. Make sure to listen carefully for chirps in the crack to avoid any bird attacks.
Apart from that, promising holds and fun moves. Enjoy! Apr 22, 2014

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