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Routes in Spiney Ridge

20th Century Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Access All Areas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Applauding Eagle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De Gaulle Syndrome S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Down n' Dirty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fight Club S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Grenade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hourglass, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurricane, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Keystone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leaning Tower S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Nalalator S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Purple Toe Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quoting Yoda S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Return of the Headhunters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short & Sweet S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone of Ignorance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Straight Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxxxic Entertainment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tractatus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Travis is Sole King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Trimmer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Fran Bagenal, 1987
Page Views: 2,802 total, 16/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is in the center of the leftmost wall on Spiney. The climb follows a noticable crack line up the main face. With good holds and footing all the way, the route is a good alternative to Cactus climbs like LaCholla Jackson.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.
Taketaketaketaketake ....take
Colorado Springs
  5.9
Taketaketaketaketake ....take   Colorado Springs
  5.9
Great climb! If your head game is strong, you won't have any issues clipping the 2nd (3rd) bolt, even if you're short. It's maybe 5.7 or lower climbing at that point. I think the rest felt a bit 9ish in parts. Mar 14, 2016
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
dseltzer   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Second bolt hanger still missing. Fine for taller people as you can clip the third bolt from a nice ledge. Scary for shorter people as you need to make a move or two to clip the third bolt. Someone should replace the hanger. Removing it to 'avoid rope drag' is stupid. Just bring a longer draw, or don't clip it if you don't want. Jan 19, 2015
Southpaw
  5.8+ PG13
Southpaw  
  5.8+ PG13
Seemed hard for a 5.8. Great route though. Jun 1, 2014
Joel Weinstein
Boulder, CO
 
Joel Weinstein   Boulder, CO
 
Second bolt is still missing, but it is not needed at all. Not remotely scary or dangerous. May 20, 2012
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
As of 4/7/12, the hanger on the 2nd bolt is still missing but, in my mind, is completely unnecessary. You can clip the 3rd bolt once you are standing on the prominent ledge where the 2nd bolt in located. Great climb. Felt more like 9- to me but was at the end of a long day, so I was probably just tired. Apr 8, 2012
I don't think there ever should have been that second bolt, unless you're into z-clipping. A good 5.8 though, not gimme. Feb 23, 2012
Phence
  5.9
Phence  
  5.9
Just climbed this on 01/14/2012. The hanger on the second bolt is missing, making it a bit sketchy for 5.8 leaders. As for the rope drag issue, a long draw will solve it. I'll come with a hanger next time I'm there in case someone doesn't beat me to it. Fun warm-up for sure. Jan 15, 2012
Just there 9/4/2011, the second bolt is still missing. We swung over from Cheers (since we already were set up on TR for that at the same time) to clip in at the third bolt, since it was a bit runout to go from first to third. A more confident leader would probably skip this, though, since the route isn't all that difficult at that point. Sep 7, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8+
A solid climb. It feels right on for 8+. The 2nd bolt is still missing as of 3/24/2010 but you can place a pink or red tri-cam in a pocket and sling extend it for pro. Yes, I would trust trad gear on this route on Shelf's limestone. Apr 25, 2010
jarthur
Westminster, CO
jarthur   Westminster, CO
Maybe I'm just a sport-junkie, but can you safely place gear in Shelf Road's friable limestone? Hmm, maybe that's why the first ascensionist decided to bolt this line. Great line. Mar 23, 2008
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Good climb...Looks like the 2nd bolt is missing to prevent rope drag....IMO chop all the damn bolts and make it a trad climb like is should be!! Feb 20, 2007
Was on this route 10-10-05. I was cleaning the route on the way down and the fourth bolt hanger came off in my hands. This is valuable pro, as it protects the crux. Jennifer, my belayer, saw the washer and nut fall as I passed the bolt on lead but thought they were pebbles. Nut, washer and hanger are now resting on a small but prominent ledge at the base of the climb (I didn't have a wrench). If you're headed to this area, please bring a wrench and reattach the hanger. This is a very sweet route at the grade. Cheers.Eddy Nov 10, 2005
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
Very nicely bolted for a newish 5.8+ leader. Jul 21, 2005
Larry Shaw
  5.8+
Larry Shaw  
  5.8+
I really liked this route...good one for the grade or warmup. Sep 27, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
A beautiful and esthetic line; one of the best of its grade at Shelf. Oct 15, 2003