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Routes in Spiney Ridge

20th Century Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Access All Areas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Applauding Eagle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De Gaulle Syndrome S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Down n' Dirty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fight Club S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Grenade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hourglass, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurricane, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Keystone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leaning Tower S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Nalalator S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Purple Toe Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quoting Yoda S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Return of the Headhunters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short & Sweet S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone of Ignorance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Straight Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxxxic Entertainment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tractatus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Travis is Sole King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Trimmer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Richard Ashert, Ed Quesada, 1987. Additional bolts - 2000
Page Views: 2,384 total, 12/month
Shared By: Edward Jenner on Mar 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is called "20th Century Man" in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook, and "21st Century Man" in Rick Thompson's Cactus Cliff/Spiney Ridge guide. It was mistakenly called "Sunday Pockets" in previous guides.

The climb is located at the right end of the first alcove on Spiney Ridge and follows bolts angling right up a face to a left-facing corner with a crack.

The start is probably done in a variety of ways (I certainly missed out a bunch of chalked holds). Figure out the easiest line that doesn't take you too far from the bolts up and then right to a crack in left-facing corner. Climb the crack/corner to the anchors.

I give this 2 stars for decent rock and reasonable continuity/length, also because I thought is was better than 'Travis is Sole King'.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

kboofis  
Accidently skipped the second bolt because I took the path of the flake and before I knew it the second bolt was at my feet and the third was only a move away. Went for it and happy I didn't fall because that would have been nasty.

Weird bolting down low. Watch out. Feb 26, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very fun climb when you look past the awkwardly bolted start.... but it goes! Solid 10b. Nov 30, 2013
patrick kadel
  5.10b
patrick kadel  
  5.10b
Joe and Bill, I never considered climbing the flake, I climbed a line on the face directly at the bolts. It is still a 10b-ish. The face moves of Tractatus were much harder, so a 10b seems close to spot on, and with the huge rests on this route, a few sections of harder climbing were welcome. I would like to think the person bolting this route was trying to keep us off the flake...but with my lack of height, I wouldn't even consider clipping from it. Fun climb. Feb 18, 2013
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
I've always thought this is a terrific route but agree with those who feel the first part of the route is poorly bolted. Would be easy to retool the first couple clips and get them into better position. Perhaps Aschert and I will get that done sometime in the near future. Remember, back in the '80s when this route was first established, there wasn't a focus on bolt positioning like there is today, and the standard of the day was far more spicy bolting (meaning more distance between clips, and often harder to clip bolt) than has become the norm today. I remember some of my early sport routes at the New River Gorge (late '80s) that were 80 ft. long and protected by 5 or 6 bolts...talk about spicy! :~)

On an historical note, the route was first done with those intial bolts but protected with trad gear in the upper corner. Rich Aschert added the bolts that now protect the corner (upper half of the route) and anchor in 2000 or there-abouts, but I don't think he did anything with the first couple bolts.

FA: Rich Aschert & Ed Quesada, 1987

...and yes, listing it as 21st Century Man in my original Cactus Guide was a typo! My bad! Feb 24, 2012
Hands down hardest .10 I have climbed. Clipping 2nd and 3rd bolt was tricky, and if you're short (like me), it puts you off the big holds and off route, and cleaning this thing was a huge bitch! Feb 13, 2012
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
For some reason the new guidebook calls this 5.10d. I would say it is an easy 10a... probably easier than several of the 9s at Shelf. I'm not sure why the new guide upped the rating (the old one had it at 10a). It is a fun climb whatever the rating may be. Dec 5, 2010
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.10a PG13
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.10a PG13
This is a really fun route with good movement through a variety of holds and big holds right where you'd like them to be...with one exception...the second bolt.

I don't think the route is harder than .10a except for the sideways move required only to clip the second bolt. I'm guessing the developer was trying to keep a straight bolt line through the lower section. But, that clip can be a bit sketchy and the climb would still be a fun .10a if the bolt was just far enough right so the clip could be made from the flake. Nov 22, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I agree with Joe - the second bolt especially sucks to clip. Unless you stay away from the flake, which makes this climb a lot harder than .10b. Good route though! Oct 27, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10a/b
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10a/b
"Well-placed bolts," Michael? I found the short flake up to the small tree to be the path of least resistance at the bottom, and the initial bolts to be awkwardly placed for this section. I required an out of the way rightward traverse to clip the second bolt, which gives decent ground fall potential. Primarily an inconvenience for those solid at the grade, but I can imagine this being a pretty puckering bit for someone closer to his/her limit. For what it's worth, I found both Toxxxic Entertainment and Travis is Sole King to be superior climbs for the grade in the same neighborhood. Worth doing, though. Feb 16, 2009
lbishop
Durango, CO
  5.10
lbishop   Durango, CO
  5.10
Pretty decent route. Sustained climbing w/ small feet down low. Good route at the grade. Nov 26, 2007
Several steep, cruxy moves, good rock and well-placed bolts make this climb one of the best of its grade in this area. May 10, 2005