Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Robertson
Page Views: 830 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This clean, juggy wall is one of the steeper consistently angled 5.11s at Shelf, and if it were at Cactus, it would be a popular, highly polished classic.

Begin directly or with some easy stemming up orangish rock. Gain the crack feature and follow it up the gently overhanging wall. When the crack disappears, good sinker pockets provide snaking passage up the wall. The angle relents to vertical, then a slight slab and some technical moves out right & around the arete. Easier climbing up the double cracks on excellent stone lead to the top.

Location

On the far right end of Spiney Ridge, only a few yards from turning the corner to The Gym, is a buttress with ~6 routes. This is the fourth bolted line from the right end.

Protection

Bolts to 2 BA.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I thought this route was kinda chossy for the first 3 bolts. Clip another then jump right around the corner (various ways to do this). Continue up past another couple of bolts to a horribly placed bolt anchor. Nov 30, 2010
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Didn't really think this route was that great. Not the best quality rock, lower crux is kind of poorly protected (seemed like a good opportunity to pummel your belayer if you come off), the anchor is crappy, and the climbing is just so-so. Dec 2, 2013
Eliminating the stemming out right makes for a few bolts of continous and lumpy climbing! Dec 9, 2018