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Routes in Spiney Ridge

20th Century Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Access All Areas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Applauding Eagle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cheers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstand T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornerstone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corrugation Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De Gaulle Syndrome S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Down n' Dirty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fight Club S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Grenade S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hourglass, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurricane, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Keystone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leaning Tower S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Nalalator S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Purple Toe Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quoting Yoda S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Return of the Headhunters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short & Sweet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone of Ignorance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Straight Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sugar and Spice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxxxic Entertainment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tractatus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Travis is Sole King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Trimmer S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10 S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Description

A great cliff between the 'new' Gym and Cactus Cliff. Offering some very good routes, mostly sport routes with some gear routes mixed in between. Mostly always in the sun during the day, which makes for enjoyable pocket pulling. Classics on the cliff include, The Hurricane, Cornerstone and (IMHO) Tractatus.

Getting There

From the new parking area by The Bank Camground, follow the road NW towards The Bank for ~100yds. Pickup the trail on the right side of the road that descends into the canyon. Follow this trail for ~5 minutes, crossing the canyon bottom, and passing below the 2150 Wall, to a terminus at the road that heads up above Cactus Cliff (this road was the former approach to Cactus). Turn left and follow the road uphill towards Cactus. Continue along the road as it banks hard right, passing the new toilet. Where the trail banks left, continue west, passing signage, along a well maintained trail that traverses Cactus Cliff. Follow the trail around the SE buttress of Cactus. Once you cross a prominent drainage you will arrive at Spiney Ridge.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spiney Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 137
Cheers
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 186
Damn Right I've Got the Moves
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 102
Stone of Ignorance
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 144
Travis is Sole King
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Toxxxic Entertainment
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 171
20th Century Man
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 42
Tree Trimmer
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 109
Access All Areas
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 146
Tractatus
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 82
Cornerstone
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 71
The New Philanthropists
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 106
Purple Toe Nails
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 35
Straight Rocket
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 85
The Hurricane
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Weapons Of Mass Arousal
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cheers
 137
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Damn Right I've Got the Moves
 186
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone of Ignorance
 102
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Travis is Sole King
 144
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Toxxxic Entertainment
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
20th Century Man
 171
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Tree Trimmer
 42
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Access All Areas
 109
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tractatus
 146
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cornerstone
 82
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The New Philanthropists
 71
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Purple Toe Nails
 106
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Straight Rocket
 35
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Hurricane
 85
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Weapons Of Mass Arousal
 19
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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Was climbing at Shelf Road on the weekend. A climber led Pully Mammoth and set it up on top rope for his girlfriend. She couldn't pull the roof so he top-roped it to clean it. He grabbed the jug to pull himself over the roof and a rock the size of a loaf of bread broke off in his hand and landed on the ground a few feet from his girlfriend.

Given the now missing jug I suspect this climb is now a tad harder than it used to be. Jun 22, 2005

 
I was wondering if anyone knows if that project ever got got. I got up it but fell a few times 3 years ago or so and never went back. It was a super cool climb! May 3, 2011
Kenny P
Woodland Park
Kenny P   Woodland Park
Perhaps someone out there can help me identify a route I climbed yesterday at Spiney Ridge. I recently moved to the area, and after three trips to Shelf, we decided to steer clear of the weekend crowds along Cactus - we selected Spiney (no one around!). It appears there are discrepancies between MP and the New Shelf Road guidebook.
I led a route to the right of #15 on MP's topo (Nalalator); it begins just to the LEFT of the small tree in the photo, in a small steep corner. The route ascends this corner (the first of two cruxes) escapes onto the ledge system, trends just slightly to the right, and continues all the way to the cliff top with another technical section mid-way. (The climbing near the anchors is also a bit difficult). This was a good route I'd give it "one-less star" than all the stars in whichever rating system you use! I estimate the overall difficulty around 11a/b????? Definitely not included in either guide. Oct 28, 2012
TheHut  
I left a guidebook and a pair of belay gloves at the base of Tractates. When I returned for them (around dark), they were gone. If you kindly hauled them out for me, I'd love to get them back. Thank you! Dec 7, 2015

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