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Spiney Ridge Rock Climbing
Routes in Spiney Ridge
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20th Century Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Access All Areas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All That Was S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Applauding Eagle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cheers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cornerstand T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cornerstone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corrugation Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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De Gaulle Syndrome S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Down n' Dirty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fight Club S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Green Grenade S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hourglass, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hurricane, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Keystone S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leaning Tower S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nalalator S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Philanthropists, The S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Purple Toe Nails S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quoting Yoda S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Return of the Headhunters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rising, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Short & Sweet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stone of Ignorance S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Straight Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar and Spice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toxxxic Entertainment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tractatus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Travis is Sole King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tree Trimmer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.10 S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Elevation: | 6,900 ft |
| GPS: | 38.631, -105.218 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 32,165 total · 155/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Lockyer on Apr 12, 2002 |
| Admins: |
Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
History (Admin Only):
Leo Paik handled an improvement for
this area
Jan 20, 2019
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Description
A great cliff between the 'new' Gym and Cactus Cliff. Offering some very good routes, mostly sport routes with some gear routes mixed in between. Mostly always in the sun during the day, which makes for enjoyable pocket pulling. Classics on the cliff include, The Hurricane, Cornerstone and (IMHO) Tractatus.
Getting There
From the new parking area by The Bank Camground, follow the road NW towards The Bank for ~100yds. Pickup the trail on the right side of the road that descends into the canyon. Follow this trail for ~5 minutes, crossing the canyon bottom, and passing below the 2150 Wall, to a terminus at the road that heads up above Cactus Cliff (this road was the former approach to Cactus). Turn left and follow the road uphill towards Cactus. Continue along the road as it banks hard right, passing the new toilet. Where the trail banks left, continue west, passing signage, along a well maintained trail that traverses Cactus Cliff. Follow the trail around the SE buttress of Cactus. Once you cross a prominent drainage you will arrive at Spiney Ridge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Spiney Ridge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: South · Southwest
Sunny Roughly 10am to 8pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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Photos
4 Comments
More About Spiney Ridge
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Guidebooks (14)
Given the now missing jug I suspect this climb is now a tad harder than it used to be. Jun 22, 2005
Woodland Park
I led a route to the right of #15 on MP's topo (Nalalator); it begins just to the LEFT of the small tree in the photo, in a small steep corner. The route ascends this corner (the first of two cruxes) escapes onto the ledge system, trends just slightly to the right, and continues all the way to the cliff top with another technical section mid-way. (The climbing near the anchors is also a bit difficult). This was a good route I'd give it "one-less star" than all the stars in whichever rating system you use! I estimate the overall difficulty around 11a/b????? Definitely not included in either guide. Oct 28, 2012